紳士戲法
    How To Be a Gentleman

    常言道:男士的衣櫃最少應該擁有一套稱身的西服!西服對於男士來說絕對是最穩妥的配備,無論是日常上班、出席宴會,甚至派對約會也總能大派用場;時移世易,男士的西服無論在選料、剪裁及用色搭配各方面也精益求精,完美切合紳士們的品味需求。
    Every man should own at least one suit. It never hurts to throw on a suit at work, or for attending banquets and parties. Suits are constantly evolving regarding materials, cutting and colour matching to perfectly suit the taste of gentlemen.


    品味根源:薩維爾街

    薩維爾街位於倫敦梅費爾區,以傳統的男士定制服裝而聞名。短短的一條街被譽為“量身定制的黃金地段”,其中客戶包括溫斯頓.邱吉爾、納爾遜子爵和拿破崙三世。薩維爾街平行於攝政街,南起肯迪街,北到維格裡街道,連接伯靈頓廣場,伯靈頓柯利弗德街及花園。無論是1981年查爾斯與戴安娜的世紀婚禮,還是2011年威廉與凱特的曠世婚禮上,新郎們都是穿著在薩維爾街定製的禮服。

    今天的薩維爾街和幾百年前比幾乎沒太大變化,這條街的定製歷史要追溯到英國攝政時期(1811-1820)。當時英國上流社會吹起了一股衣著考究的風氣,常穿著西服三件套出席社交場合的Beau Brummell成了男裝的風向標,西服變成了時髦物,薩維爾街上的西服定製生意就這樣開始蓬勃發展起來。對個人形象一絲不苟的溫莎公爵更是只穿薩維爾街的手工定製西服,他還熱衷向歐洲王室、好萊塢明星和美國富商推薦這條街,使得薩維爾街客似雲來。在2015年,英國將薩維爾街的中文譯名更改為“ 高富帥街”,希望能吸引更多中國遊客前來。

    The Origin of Taste: Savile Row London

    Savile Row is a street in Mayfair, London, renowned principally for its traditional bespoke tailoring for men suits which successfully attract customers including Winston Churchill, Horatio Nelson and Napoléon III. The street runs parallel to Regent Street between Conduit Street at the northern end and Vigo Street at the southern, linking places like Burlington Arcade and Burlington Gardens. Whether it was the wedding of Prince Charles and Lady Diana Spencer in 1981, or the wedding of Prince William and Catherine Middleton in 2011, both grooms wore the finest bespoke suits created on Savile Row.

    Today’s Savile Row is almost unchanged from hundreds of years ago. The history of this street goes back to the Regency period (1811-1820), when wearing decent and attractive clothes became trendy in circles of Britain’s high society. Suits became fashionable as the Englishman of Fashion Beau Brummell always wore a three-piece suit, who set new standards of correct dress for gentlemen. Edward VIII only used the same tailor of Savile Row, who tailored his outfits to his flawless and extravagant tastes. He was also keen to recommend this street to the European royal families, Hollywood stars and wealthy Americans. Consequently, the bespoke tailors of Savile Row made brisk business.To attract more Chinese customers, the Chinese translation of Savile Row was changed to “Gaofushuai Jie” in 2015, meaning “Tall, Rich, Handsome Street”.


    有關西服,從古至今經常聽到一些爭論,究竟英式西服還是意式西服最好?這大概等於別人拿中國少林和西洋拳術相作比較,永遠沒有標準答案。誠然,從設計理念與剪裁來說,這兩派別的西服設定也確實有不少不同之處。
    There does not seem to be an answer to the recurring question of whether the Brits or the Italians are better suit makers. It is akin to asking whether Shaolin Kungfu or boxing are more effective at knocking out an opponent. Certainly, the design concept and cutting of the two suit styles do show differentiations.

    英國高級西服品牌British suits
    (from left)Burberry, Paul Smith, Hackett

    英意西服大不同

    對於英國人來說,西服是用來區分階級的,西服中隱藏了很多“暗號”,比如,不同的學校,領帶上的顏色都代表著它們獨特的校徽,對於他們來說,西服的功能跟制服差不多,用於劃分不同的團體或傳統派別。相對來說,意大利的陽光與海灘,就表達了截然不同的民風。有著一種隨意的感覺,它代表著隨性、不羈、自我等等。當然,最反諷的是,這種“ 隨性”都是精心設計出來的。

    剪裁上,英國西服最大的特點是寬肩細腰、面料較厚,穿起來是倒三角形。因為從薩維爾街的定制西服發展以來,英式西服強調的就是合身、肩膀平直、形很硬。再加上英國西服的胸墊很厚,穿起來會顯得比較魁梧、挺拔,同時西服腰部又收緊。和英式不同,意大利西服質料較柔軟順和,不用或只用很薄的墊肩,而且西服沒有袋蓋,所以看起來會更簡潔。總的來說,意式西服更貼身輕薄,適合身材不那麼寬肩細腰且個子也不那麼高的人,大多數中國人也都更適合意大利西服。

    意大利高級西服品牌Italian suits
    (from left) Prada, Giorgio Armani, Gucci

    The Battle of Suits

    For the Brits, suits are class symbols. A wearer’s social background is often revealed by various details. For example, the colours of a school uniform’s tie reflect the coat of arm. In their culture, suits are like uniforms, signifying a person’s affiliation and heritage. In comparison the Italian style is more casual and individualistic, bred by the country’s sunny weather and beach culture. Somewhat ironically, however, is that the “casual” style is also the result of careful design.

    In terms of cutting, British suits feature wider shoulders and slimmer waistlines, forming an inverted triangle. From the days of Savile Row, British suits have always emphasised a good fit, level shoulders and a firm form. They often have thick chest pads, making the wearer’s figure look more imposing. In contrast, Italian suits use softer fabrics. Pads, if used at all, are often thinner. There is usually no pocket cover, resulting in a cleaner design. In general, Italian suits are lighter and snugger. They suit people of a smaller built and hence most Chinese wear Italian suits well.


    Thom Browne 經典的灰西服掀起了男性穿衣模式的巨大革命
    The grey suit of Thom Brownebegan a revolutionof men’s fashion.

    告別沉悶的正裝配搭,只要動動腦筋,西服也可穿出時尚魅力。
    With some creativity, suits can be fashionable and less formal too.

    玩味紳士

    身為當代美國最具影響力的男裝設計師之一,Thom Browne自2001年創立同名品牌,旗下經典的灰色西服掀起了男性穿衣模式的巨大革命,用縮小的衣服輪廓改變傳統西服比例,標誌性紅、白、藍三色的設計,讓人重新審視傳統西服的陳規比例。有人認為他的西服像縮了水,看起來小了一個呎吋,稍為吊腳的西褲,褲管窄度、褲腳至腳踝的領域,其實一切盡在他掌握之中,這種走在時尚前端的戲劇性誇張剪裁,讓品牌在時裝界中獨樹一格。品牌每季舉辦的時裝騷同樣極具話題性,每次所呈現的概念及鋪排都會帶給行內行外人視覺震撼的體驗。

    看似前衛、不與俗世妥協的造型,山本耀司(Yohji Yamamoto)讓單調的黑西裝和白襯衫變得詩意盎然。每一季看似所用的概念是一樣的,但其剪裁、顏色和材質的分別卻又體現出深思熟慮的過程。山本耀司的設計風格簡潔而富有韻味,線條流暢,反時尚,不分性別地帶出雌雄同體的美學概念。整齊而細緻的剪裁、洗水布料和黑色都是他的長青項目。山本分別於1972年及1979年創立了Y’s for women 及Y’s for men,Y’s 系列貫徹他的設計理念,但就較為實用及easy to carry,是新一代的潮流指標根據。

    Playful Gentleman

    The grey suit of Thom Browne is an example. The label, founded by and named after United State’s most influential designer of men’s fashion, began a revolution by creating suits of a shrunken silhouette. Featuring the brand’s signature blue-white-red tri-stripe, the shrunken suit reappraises the proportion of traditional suits. Some think his suits look a size smaller with shorter and narrower trousers, but all these are deliberate. These avant-garde and dramatic designs have earned the brand much discussion in every fashion show. Every time, the concepts and presentation give the audience a visual surprise.

    Another label producing avant-garde suits with a unique design is Yohji Yamamoto. The brand has transformed the dull black suit with white shirt into something idyllic. The design concept of each season seems similar but there are subtle but well-considered differences in cutting, colours and materials. The style of Yohji Yamamoto is clean but elegant with smooth lines. It follows the concept of androgynous asexual aesthetic. The label’s neat and delicate cutting, washed fabric and the black colour form its signature. Yamamoto launched Y’s for women and Y’s for men in 1972 and 1979 respectively. These extensions follow the original label’s design concept through but are more functional and easier to carry. They have since become icons of youth’s fashion.

    山本耀司讓單調的黑西裝和白襯衫變得詩意盎然
    Yohji Yamamotohas transformed the dull black suit with white shirt into something idyllic.

    西服配飾突顯個人品味 Accessories of Suits

    魔鬼在細節,要穿出個人品味,絕不要看輕配飾的力量。
    The devil is in the detail. Never underestimate the power of accessories to show off personal taste.

    領結 Bow Tie

    領結比起領帶多了一分俏皮與隨性;同時,領結並不是專屬於正式場合的配件,平常聚會甚至上班,只要一件襯衫搭配合適領結,就可立刻提升注目程度。

    Bow tie is more playful and casual than tie, which is not exclusive for formal occasions and great for parties or even work. You can instantly boost your attention by wearing a shirt with a suitable bow tie.

    (左) 朗格 Lange1 腕錶 A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1
    (右) 江詩丹頓 Malte 陀飛輪腕錶 Vacheron Constantin Malte Tourbillon

    腕錶 Watch

    腕錶與西服的搭配絕對是因人而異,有人喜歡鋼帶機械錶的穩重感覺,有人獨愛皮帶玫瑰金錶殼腕錶的優雅不凡,穿上西服,只要確保手腕上不是卡通錶基本上也沒有問題。

    The type of watch to wear with suits is a matter of personality. Some prefer mechanical watches with steel straps for their weight, while others like the elegant feel of watches with rose gold shells and leather straps. Almost all watches, with the exception of childish cartoon ones, go well with suits.

    (左)Bottega Veneta 男士手提包
    (右)Fendi男士手提包

    手提包 Clutch Bag

    注意,是手提包,並不是公事包,公事包大概已是上世紀的產物,近年各大品牌紛紛推出設計獨特,選料上乘的手提包,中看之餘亦具備實際功用。

    Do not confuse a clutch bag with a briefcase. Briefcase is now largely out of fashion. Many labels have produced high-quality clutch bags of unique designs. They are not only nice to look at, but are also practical.

    紳士帽 Gentleman Hat

    紳士帽種類包羅萬有,從帽冠到帽沿的差別,決定了頭上那頂紳士帽的正確類別。其中,Fedora大概是大家印象中最接近“ 紳士帽”概念的款式。從帽冠部分而言,帽冠高度介於10 至16 厘米不等。相比Fedora,Trilby的帽沿比較窄,介於2至5厘米之間。整體而言,Trilby會比Fedora來的休閒,正裝或休閒風都適合搭配。

    There are many types of gentleman hats and they can be told apart from the sizes of the crown and brim. Fedora is probably the most typical gentleman hat, with a crown of 10-16cm tall. Trilby is another common option with a narrower brim, measuring around 2-5 cm. In general, Trilby has a more casual feel than Fedora and can be worn in both formal and leisure occasions.

    袖口扣 Cufflinks

    談及標準西裝的規格,其中一樣最常被忽略的,就是外套的袖長應比襯衫袖短,並露出半吋袖口。而分出高低勝負的,就是那一顆落在袖口之間的鈕扣,這件小小的配飾,用料越矜貴就越見身份顯赫。一顆以半寶石或貝母打造而成的袖口鈕,相信會令你在社交場合中讓別人留下深刻印象。

    One of the most overlooked details in a formal suit is that the length of the jacket’s sleeves should be shorter than the shirt’s by around half an inch. The cufflinks can then be shown. They signify a person’s status and a pair of cufflinks decorated with semiprecious gems or mother of pearl would make you stand out in a social event.

    (左)Church’s two tone 皮鞋 Leather Shoes
    (右)Balenciaga Track 運動鞋 Sneakers

    皮鞋/運動鞋 Leather Shoes/ Sneakers

    曾幾何時,有人曾說“ 一雙黑皮鞋,足以走天涯!”是的,黑皮鞋絕對是配襯西服最穩妥的配搭;隨著潮流演變,一些具有多色配搭、或有漸變色彩效果的皮鞋應運而生;此外,追求時尚的好動活力紳士亦喜愛以運動鞋配襯西服,觀感亦有著不同效果。

    It was once believed that a pair of leather shoes was all one needed. Indeed, a pair of black leather shoes cannot go wrong with suits. However, as time goes by, more colourful leather shoes are now also common. Some would even wear sneakers with suits to show their energetic side.