俄羅斯仲夏激情 Summer Passion in Russia


四年一度的球壇盛事於六、七月假俄羅斯開鑼,各足球狂迷是否已蠢蠢欲動?平日最愛旅遊及運動的我(余逸思Yoshi)經已準備妥當,除了最熱門的莫斯科、聖彼德堡,
更特別推薦位處黑海沿岸,有著温暖海水和高聳雪山的索契。當世界盃來到索契,這個連總統普京也喜愛不已的度假聖地,即將掀起一股源自足球的狂熱激情。
The World Cup will take place in Russia in June and July. As a traveller, I (Yoshi) have already researched on the best bits of Russia! Apart from popular cities
such as Moscow and St. Petersburg, Sochi, along the Black Sea, is a resort town favoured by President Putin and is also one of the cities to host World Cup matches. A wave of football enthusiasm will surely wash over the town.

全球焦點 足球盛事

第21届世界盃足球賽於6月14日至7月15日舉行,俄羅斯境內11座城市中的12座球場開賽前席已蓄勢待發,所有場館外除了放置今屆的吉祥物“扎比瓦卡”擺設,平日的花盆亦通通換成足球模樣,彷佛象徵著對足球的熱愛和人民的熱情好客。

位於索契奧林匹克公園內的菲什特奥林匹克體育場,是2014年索契冬奧會的開幕式和閉幕式的舉辦場地,同時亦是今屆世界盃的主要比賽場地之一,可容納近4萬人,是俄羅斯首次大規模地外部採用透明全玻璃結構和聚碳酸酯屋頂的體育場,造價達7億7千多萬美元(約61億4,000萬港幣)。還記得乘坐飛機即將降落索契機場時,看著右側舷窗,整個體育場的外觀盡收眼底,俯視下猶如一個被積雪覆蓋的山脈般,靜靜佇立在黑海岸邊等待大家光臨。

世界杯賽期間,菲什特體育場會舉行四場小組賽以及兩場淘汰賽,當中最受關注的必然是小組賽同組的西班牙大戰葡萄牙。加上西葡兩國不但首輪便要對碰,在8強賽事時更有可能碰上法國或阿根廷,這樣的分佈真的讓兩國球迷著實揪了一把心!但不論哪隊球隊成功出線,球迷也可到索契海濱沿岸感受一下足球氣氛,因盃賽期間整條大街會舉行球迷狂歡節,啤酒小吃應有盡有,定可玩個痛快。


World Focus at Fisht Olympic Stadium

The 21st World Cup is hosted from 14 June to 15 July. Preparation work at the 12 stadiums in 11 cities across the country is in full swing.Mascot Zabivaka is placed outside the venues and even the plants have been trimmed to the shape of football. The whole country is ready to welcome the World Cup tourists.

Situated at the Sochi Olympic Park, Fisht Olympic Stadium was the venue for the opening and closing ceremonies of the Winter Olympics in 2014. With a capacity of 40,000 people, it is also one of the major World Cup stadiums. The roof was built from ethylene tetrafluoroethylene imported overseas, first of its kind in Russia. As the plane lands in Sochi, the over USD 770 million (HKD 6.14 billion) stadium comes into sight on the right,just like the snowy peaks when looking down from above, welcoming visitors on the shore of Black Sea.

Over the World Cup period, Fisht Olympic Stadium hosts four matches in the Group Phase and another two in the Knockout Phase. Everyone’s eyes are on the match between Spain and Portugal. The winning team may even play against France or Argentina in the quarter-finals. In any case,football fans can enjoy the heated atmosphere at the FIFA Fan Fest at the seaside, where beer and snacks will be served.



挑戰極限

世界盃以外,身為俄國最受歡迎的度假城市索契仍有不少吸引之處。北部的高加索山脈擋住了西伯利亞的寒流,南部黑海的暖流又常年滋潤著它,是全國冬季最溫暖的地方,得天獨厚的氣候令索契擁有首屈一指的自然風光,有著“ 夏日之都” 的美譽。

若您自問膽子夠大兼勇於挑戰,那定要到空中公園一趟。公園內有多項空中極限項目設施,當中樓高約56層的“ 世界最高秋千” 最受歡迎,可單人坐也可雙人坐,以最高速度盪下,雙腳回到地面時真的有點感覺不是自己了!而要抵達這個秋千冒險,還必須先走過439米的“世界最長吊橋” 。空中公園跟澳門旅遊塔的蹦極一樣同屬AJ Hackett,亦是世上八個同類公園中規模最大。對於熱愛更刺激運動的您,207米和69米高度的山間蹦極可謂首選,倒向深淵,跳入峽谷,感受自由落體的強勁衝擊力!


 Going Extreme

World Cup aside, Sochi, as the most popular resort town in Russia, is home to many exciting activities. It is Russia’s warmest city in winter as the Caucasus Mountains on its north blocks the cold air from Siberia and the Black Sea on the south brings warm current. The pleasant climate makes it the perfect spot to enjoy the nature.

For those up for challenges, Skypark AJ Hackett Sochi offers extreme entertainment on a high altitude. The most popular activity is Sochi Swing – the highest swing in the world at a thrilling height of 56 storeys. Visitors can either go on it alone or with a partner. After swinging in the air at such high speed, one might feel dizzy when reaching the ground.To arrive at the swing, one must pass through the longest Skybridge in the world – measuring 439 m. The extreme sports provided in the Skypark and Macau Tower are both owned by AJ Hackett, and the Skypark is the biggest among the eight parks of the same nature in the world. Extreme sport lovers may take a plunge from 207 m or 69 m at the park’s Bungee jump facilities.




舌尖盛宴

索契的地方美食和俄羅斯傳統美食截然不同,留有高加索國家的深刻印記,因此這裡的羊肉製品、烤肉與格魯吉亞餃子等非常受歡迎。但古語有云“ 靠山吃山,靠海吃海” ,來到索契,又怎能錯過當地海鮮?

位於黑海旁的Sanremo餐廳以本地海鮮作主打,牡蠣、貽貝、帝王蟹、虎蝦與章魚等均可在這一一品嘗,各類海鮮肉質鮮甜爽口,配以調酒師特調的夏日雞尾酒,鮮味更上一層樓。且整間餐廳裝修以海洋為主,不但隨處可見跟海洋有關的物件,腳下還鋪滿了綿綿細沙,配以落地玻璃和舒適的露台,彷彿置身海灘無異,讓您盡享黑海景色。除了新鮮的海產品外,餐廳的菜單還包括意大利、日本料理及俄羅斯的典型菜餚,入夜後更設有現場樂隊演奏時尚音樂。於良晨美景中,與三五知己在餐廳中輕淡淺酌,已屬人生一大樂事。

 Seafood Feast

Sochi´s cuisine is different from classical Russian culinary. Heavily influenced by Caucasian culture, Sochi cuisine features lamb, roast meat and Georgian dumplings. However, since Sochi is on the seaside, a seafood meal seems like a more sensible choice.

On the coast of Black Sea, Sanremo serves local seafood like oysters, mussels, king crabs, tiger prawns and octopuses, best paired with summer cocktails. Inspired by beach and ocean, the floor of the restaurant is covered in a layer of sand, and the ceiling-to-floor windows and balconies allows diners to enjoy the mesmerising view of the Black Sea. Apart from freshly caught seafood, the restaurant also offers Italian, Japanese and traditional Russian dishes. At night, it becomes a great place to be with friends because of the live band performances.




療養聖地

索契是俄羅斯最大的旅遊療養勝地,每年來這裡療養、旅遊的人超過300萬,全因這裡有著溫和而舒適的氣候,即便在冬季,棕櫚樹和柏樹依然翠綠,草坪裡栽種的各色花卉仍五彩繽紛。早在沙皇時代的皇室家族成員,只要得病便會前來索契,來一場養生之旅。

索契的療養院大多以溫泉浴場的形式而建,而我獨愛位於高加索山脈下的水療中心SPA-Bath Complex Espas,因其周邊有瀑布河流, 讓平日身處大都市的身心可親親大自然,放鬆心神。整座水療中心以當地板栗原木所構成,步入室內,即可聞到陣陣樹木清香,伴隨著配搭用的傳統陶瓷磚,極具俄羅斯風格。往室外浴場走,一個被火炭燒著的巨大熱鍋異常吸晴,而這正正是俄國的特色三溫暖。雖熱鍋一直被火炭燒著,但鍋內的水卻只有攝氏42度,鍋中還浸著白樺樹葉,在鍋內一邊享受高加索的自然美景,一邊感受水療的洗滌,舒適悠閒。

 Spa and Relaxation

Every year, over 3 million of visitors come to Sochi and come to refuge from their busy lives. The moderate climate means palms and cypresses are still green in winter with colourful flowers. In the Russian Empire period, the city was where the royal family members would go to recover from illness.

Most sanatoria in Sochi are operated as spas. My personal favourite is SPA-Bath Complex Espas at the foot of the Caucasus Mountains.It is surrounded by waterfalls and rivers, and the proximity to nature is relaxing for city dwellers. The building is constructed with local chestnut wood, the fragrance of which permeates into the air of the interior, and decorated by traditional ceramic tiles. the local sauna is unique as a huge pot of water with silver birch leaves was being heated up by fire on charcoal, surprisingly the water measured only 42°C. It was amazingly relaxing to soak in the pot while enjoying the natural scenery of Caucasus.



海天一色

索契臨海而建,東西距離長145公里,是俄羅斯最狹長的城市,也是世界上最狹長的城市之一,當看過索契的高山後,自然要乘坐遊船出海體會一下黑海的真實壯麗景致。建於1955年的索契海事碼頭大樓是索契最熱鬧的地點,是俄羅斯唯一一個專為旅客而設的港口。

總長度330米的客運碼頭停滿可供遊客租借的遊艇帆船,站在碼頭邊看出去,已是一片心曠神怡的藍:天空藍得輕盈,黑海藍得深邃,仿佛此刻人和海上的船隻已被這藍寶石包容,溶在這深邃的海中。黃昏時份,不少遊艇的船家會主動邀請您出海賞景,我就選了一輪小帆船,在船頭甲板上一邊吹著海風,一邊看著慢慢被大海吞噬的太陽,那份愜意,那道彩霞,委實難以筆墨所能形容。幸運的話,更會遇到大規模海鷗在頭上飛過,又或能看到三五成群的海豚於海中嬉戲的身影!

 Marine Passenger Terminal

Situated along the sea, Sochi stretches a distance of 145 km from east to west. It is the longest city in Russia, and the second longest in the world. After exploring the mountains, it is time to go to the sea. Built in 1955, the Marine Passenger Terminal is one of the busiest spots in Sochi and the sole passenger-only pier in Russia.

The pier measures a total of 330 m, and are lined with rental yachts and sailboats. Walking along the pier, different layers of blue came into sight. In the evening, many yacht operators would invite visitors on board to watch sunset at the sea. I opted for a small sailboat. Sea breezes blew as the sun went down. The view had a calming effect beyond description. You may even see a big group of seagulls crossing the sky or dolphins dashing between boats if you are lucky.


酒店的日與夜

貴為俄羅斯總統普京最愛的度假聖地,這裡的酒店質素自然有所保證。位於高加索山腳下滑雪勝地中心地帶的索契萬豪卡拉斯拉雅波利亞納酒店,被壯麗的山脈環繞,景色優美,酒店內428間不同種類的客房皆配有私人陽台,好讓入住的旅客獨享最私密的風景時光。

最讓我欣賞的,是酒店自設水療中心,出外觀光後,到水療中心內泡個熱水浴,借此恢復身體精力,改善血液循環,舒緩旅行的疲勞。同時,也愛到室外泳池逗留一個大早上,躺在沙灘椅上,任由溫暖的太陽曬在身上,再看看俄國小孩嬉水的可愛模樣,到處也是一派悠然模樣!到了晚上,則可到大堂酒廊找手藝精湛的調酒師為您調配雞尾酒,當晚調酒師就為我呈上一杯草莓味特調,味道清甜可口,酸酸甜甜的口感最適合一眾女生;而男士們則可點一杯單一麥芽威士忌,與友人細談世界盃的足球餘溫。

 Day and Night at the Hotel

Hotels in Sochi are top-notch, catering even for President Putin. Sochi Marriott Krasnaya Polyana Hotel is located at the ski area at the foot of Caucasus Mountains. With a breathtaking view of the mountain ranges, all of the 428 rooms are fitted with private balconies.

The spa at the hotel is also my favourite. A revitalising and soothing hot bath there after a long day of travelling is the way to go. I like spending the morning at the outdoor poolside, feeling the warmth of the sun on a lounge chair while watching children enjoying themselves. At night, the lobby bar offers a wide range of cocktails. The bartender made me a strawberry-flavoured drink that suits ladies perfectly. For guys, a single-malt whisky will go well with conversations on the day’s football match.






嘗奢華魚子醬

來到俄羅斯,不說魚子醬和伏特加,情況有如球場上沒有球証與足球一樣!毗鄰索契萬豪卡拉斯拉雅波利亞納酒店,您定會被一座奢華的歐式建築物所吸引,而這座建築物便是擁有世界級娛樂設備的索契娛樂場。

在這裡,除了不時會有俄羅斯和國際明星的表演、主題派對等,其高級餐廳Brunello更赫赫有名,由著名品牌主廚Ilya Zakharov經營,在此品嘗被評為世界三大奢華美食之一的魚子醬最好不過。魚子醬除了以湯匙直接入口品嚐其鮮味外,主廚還把它抹在奶油鬆餅上兼飾以金箔,可謂奢華至極。除魚子醬外,主廚還有不少創新料理,如加入草莓及韓國泡菜汁的牡蠣和融入爆米花的扇貝等,無一不令人大快朵頤。此外,餐廳內還設有侍酒師,向您推薦可形合各道菜餚的餐酒,不太懂伏特加種類的朋友也大可放心。

 Caviar Tasting: A Luxurious Experience

Russia without caviar and vodka is like a football match without referee and football. The Sochi Casino is located at a magnificent European-style building right next to Sochi Marriott Krasnaya Polyana Hotel.

The world-class venue features splendid performances by Russian and international stars and themed parties. Its fine-dining restaurant Brunello, run by celebrity chef Ilya Zakharov, is acclaimed for high-quality delicacies. It is the ideal place to taste caviar, which has rated as one of the three most luxurious dishes in the world. Apart from spooning it directly into the mouth, the restaurant also serves it on a cream pancake topped with gold flakes. Other recommendations include modern dishes such as Branded Brunello Oysters with Seasonal Wild Strawberries and Kimchi Sauce, and Scallop with Jerusalem Artichoke, Popcorn made of Piglet and Crispy Jamon Chips. The bartender also offers recommendations for the best pairing wine or vodka.



索契還有很多景點,可惜時間有限,只好留待下次再訪,如全俄羅斯最大,占地20多萬平方米的索契樂園,不僅有好玩刺激的過山車,也有不同的兒童遊樂項目,
亦是俄羅斯第一家也是目前唯一一家與迪士尼樂園同級別的主題樂園。此外,莫斯科和聖彼德堡也是世界杯的比賽舉行地,以下景點亦值得一覽!
Due to time constraints, we could only visit Sochi Park next time. It is the largest and only theme park in Russia close to high standard theme parks like
Disneyland. It covers more than 200,000 sq.m. with exciting roller coasters and children’s rides. Besides Sochi, Moscow and St. Petersburg are also
venues for the World Cup matches with different attractions.


 莫斯科瓦西里升天教堂

始建於1560年,是16世紀俄羅斯民間建築藝術風格的代表作之一。多彩迥異的洋蔥頭狀塔頂是教堂最鮮明的標誌,教堂內金碧輝煌,到處是精美的壁畫。

Saint Basil’s Cathedral, Moscow

Founded in 1561, it is one of the representative works of the 16th century Russian Folk Architecture with a colorful and distinctive onion dome, and is magnificently decorated with ornamental murals.




 聖彼德堡冬宮

原為俄國沙皇皇宮,現是俄羅斯艾爾米塔甚博物館,是世界四大博物館之一,與巴黎的盧浮宮、倫敦的大英博物館、紐約的大都會藝術博物館齊名。

 Winter Palace, St. Petersburg

It was the official residence of the Russian monarchs. Today, it forms part of a complex of buildings housing the Hermitage Museum, which is one of the four world’s leading museums.


 聖彼德堡琥珀宮

一座通體由琥珀和黃金裝飾而成的宮殿,共有12塊護壁鑲板和12個柱腳,總重至少達6噸,全都由當時比黃金還貴12倍的琥珀建成,被譽為“ 世界第8 大奇跡”。

 The Amber Room, St. Petersburg

Dubbed the “Eighth Wonder of the World”,it is a chamber decorated in 12 amber panels (with a total weight of 6 tons) backed with gold leaf and 12 columns.At that time amber was 12 times more expensive than gold.




 莫斯科紅場

莫斯科最古老的廣場,見證了俄羅斯歷史上很多重大事件,也是俄羅斯重要節日舉行、大型慶典和閱兵活動的地方,紅場內還有著名的列寧墓。

 Red Square, Moscow

The oldest city square in Moscow which has witnessed the history of Russia and houses the famous Lenin’s Mausoleum. Many major events and festive celebrations are also held here.


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