峴港的法式浪漫 Romantic Encounter in Da Nang

我自己出生在海濱城市,所以一來到越南峴港就感到無比親切,我是媛媛,大學時代由於獲得了一項模特兒「紐約時尚獎」,自此愛上了周遊列國;今次由我來帶大家走一回這個被美國《國家地理雜誌》評為人生必去的50個地方之一,躺躺有着東方夏威夷之稱的悠長美溪沙灘,踏着無憂無慮的浪花,迎着十二月仍帶點火辣辣的陽光,戴上尖頂的竹笠,穿上一身純白色的地道奧黛長衫,一起闖進這個有着法國皇室與東方皇朝風情的熱情小港灣好了!
My name is Yuan Yuan, enthusiast of travelling. This time let’s tour around Da Nang, Vietnam. As I grew up in a coastal city, the continuous My Khe Beach, blissful sprays and bright sunshine in Da Nang seem so familiar to me. Depicted as the oriental Hawaii, Da Nang deserves its reputation with a prefect blend of French and oriental aroma.


巴拿山頂法國仙境城堡

法皇拿破崙三世指派艦隊於1858年進駐越南,第一個佔領地就是峴港。我看過電影《情人》講述法國女孩子與富有中國商人的一段情事,對於法國人在這個酷熱的中南半島過着的末落貴族生活猶然神往。

十九世紀的法國殖民地主,皇公貴族們當然耐不住峴港的炎夏,他們發覺不遠處1,400米高的巴拿山不但涼爽,而且有着優質的泉水,於是到此築起城堡別墅、也種植葡萄酒莊園,成了一個難能可貴的避暑山莊。

今天巴拿山的營業時間為上午7點半到晚上9點半,可以乘坐纜車往山頂遊玩,總長5,801米的登山纜車仍然保持着「最長的獨線纜車」和「世界最高的纜車」的吉尼斯世界紀錄。當我乘着纜車來到山上城堡,像騰雲駕霧,尤如置身於人間仙境,我忍不住「哇! 」的一聲叫了出來,放眼看去盡是一個法國中世紀的城堡小鎮,廣場中有巍峨城堡、綺麗噴泉、雄偉教堂、雅緻歌劇院等。貪玩的我還來到以法國小說家儒勒.凡爾納的《地心探險記》以及《海底兩萬里》為藍本設計的「夢想樂園」玩個不亦樂乎!

半山還有個貴氣的法蘭西花園, 花圃修剪出豔麗圖案,五彩繽紛花香撲鼻, 處處有着美人雕塑,充滿異國情調;我在老酒莊叫上一杯法國佳釀,遙遙幻想昔日的貴族在這個法式天空之城,俯瞰下界峴港,還是可以感受到昔日殖民地主的皇者氣派。

Da Nang was the first Vietnamese city conquered by Napoléon III in 1858. Movie “The Lover” unveils the love story of a French girl and a wealthy Chinese Merchant in colonial time. And I am always longing for the lives of French people in this broiling peninsula portrayed in this film.

Ba Na Hills was developed as a summer resort by French royals during 19th century. Its cool weather and premium spring water attracted those nobles to erect castles and open wineries.

Ba Na Hills opens from 7:30 am to 9:00 pm. It holds the world’s longest non-stop single track cable car with length of 5,801 m. Overlooking from the castle, I was like roaming in a fairy land where towering castles, gorgeous fountains, grand churches and elegant theatres stretches in rows. Fantasy park was designed on the fictions of French Writer Jules Verne: “Journey To The Center Of The Earth” and “20,000 Leagues Under the Sea”.

Embedded with sculptures, D’Amour Flower Garden represents delicacy in parterres and flowers. A glass of wine will help to recall the prosperity of Da Nang in colonial times.


充滿靈氣的峴港大教堂

穿過峴港最大的露天市場,經過美食小攤、路過奧黛攤檔、擠過鮮花市集,才來到巍峨的峴港大教堂,法國人在越南期間,曾經建下了許多標誌性的車站、會堂、紀念碑,然而隨着歲月過去,法式建築物在這裡幾乎消失殆盡,唯獨這所1923年建造的法式大教堂依然優美地屹立鬧市當中。

穿過外圍的希臘式廊柱,教堂正面的門牆有種令人震懾的美感,中世紀哥德式的拱頂建築,層層遞進的尖塔一直延伸往最高處的十字架,而十字架頂端更加裝有一隻雄雞風向標,因此本地人暱稱這裏為「雄雞大教堂」;最有趣是整幢教堂建築髹上糖菓般的粉紅色,既甜蜜又浪漫,難怪成了峴港指定拍攝婚紗照的最熱門地標之一。

周日禮拜時份,可踏進大教堂花花綠綠的法式地磚,坐在古色古香的長長木椅上,靜靜地在這裏聽一下風琴聲,浮躁的心也為之平靜下來;教堂參觀時間為上午11點半到下午2點,旁邊是一座住有百多位修女的聖保羅女修道院,她們炎夏時清一色穿着白色衣裳、冬天時則穿上黑色衣裳,跟教堂的色彩成了強烈對比。教堂後邊還有一座露天石造禮拜堂,裏邊供奉着不少教會弟兄的名字,我好奇地看到許多善信在焚香膜拜聖母像,西方與東方的信仰在此結合得天衣無縫。

峴港大教堂後的露天石造禮拜堂。
The open temple behind Da Nang Cathedral.

Walking through the biggest open market in Da Nang, you will see Da Nang Cathedral elegantly standing in front of food stalls, clothing shops and flower markets. It is the only preserved legacy of French colonists while other French-style stations and monuments all are vanished in history.

You can have a full view of this popular and gorgeous candylike pink color church from the main gate; Greek pillars erect outside it; Gothic vaults stretch to the topmost cross, which is bound with a rooster wind vane – no wonder it is called the rooster church!

The church opens from 11:30 am to 2:00 pm. I sit on the wooden bench and join the Mass on Sundays. Music from the pipes will help my heart calm down. Beside the cathedral is St Abbess where lives more than 100 nuns. They would be in white dresses in summer and black dresses in winter. The wonderful part is many Buddhists are worshipping in an open temple near the church, indicating a perfect blend of oriental and western religions.


 漫步世界最美沙灘

任何人第一步踏足峴港的美溪沙灘,都會被它陣陣爽涼又悠閒的海風薰得帶點醉意,這裏被《福布斯雜誌》評為世界六大最美海灘之一而聲名大噪,長達9公里的沙灘,散落着許多漁民用竹編製的「碗公船」,圓圓的大碗盛載着漁民們一天的希望,緩緩地划出海邊。漫長的海岸線平坦無比,水到遠處也不深,因而發明了這些淺灘小漁船。

能夠成為世界最美沙灘之一,這裏沙子的柔軟潔白細膩自然不同凡響,我赤腳走在上邊好像糅走了在城中累積的一層鬱悶。海濱的酒店面朝沙灘,只消走上幾步就可踏踏無邊無際的浪花,看看人們玩水上降傘、打打沙灘排球,年輕小伙子從攤子捎來一柄太陽傘幾瓶啤酒就可消磨一個下午,真的有着東方夏威夷的浪漫。

這天晚上訂了峴港著名的法國餐廳Le Bambino Restaurant,這間巷弄中的法國餐廳,露天亭園還有一座小泳池。法國老闆非常熱情,他講述跟太太從法國南部移居此地,就是想將正宗南法菜式介紹到峴港;點了法國風味的洋葱湯與原味蝸牛,洋葱湯濃味撲鼻、蝸牛在黃油中發出滋滋香味,我還點了入口豐腴的烤鵝肝、而油封鴨則甘香回味,似有置身巴黎品嘗米其林餐廳的感覺;我媛媛又怎會錯過法式甜品,這裏有被譽為全峴港獨一無二的巧克力慕斯、檸檬塔、手製冰淇淋,全都要來慢慢品嘗!

The 9 km My Khe Beach is elected as one of the six most beautiful beaches by Forbes. Cool breeze blows from the sea, on which float the bowl-shaped bamboo boats. Those boats are well designed for the shallow water and carries the hope of fishermen to the sea.

Sands on the stretching beach is fantastically smooth and white, alluring you to walk on it on bare feet. You can also tread on the buoyant sprays in the shoal, or enjoy some beer and rest under the beach umbrella, watching people playing volleyball and parachutes as if you were in the Oriental Hawaii.

I booked the renowned Le Bambino Restaurant for supper. The boss moved here with his wife to bring authentic French cuisine to Da Nang. This meal was a feast for my stomach: French Onion Soup was rich in flavors; Escargot perfectly satisfied my taste with its appetizing savory; Roasted Foie Gras melted in my mouth; Duck Confit leaves a pleasant aftertaste. Do not miss the desserts! Chocolate Mousse, lemon tart and Gelato are the best in Da Nang.


徜徉酒店前的蔚藍海岸

循着世界最美的美溪沙灘一路遊逛,來到今次下塌的峴港皇冠假日酒店,整體設計糅合法式古典建築與越式風格,偌大的花園就像30個足球場大小的花圃與泳池,前面是開闊私人海灘,朝陽與晚霞美景盡入眼簾。

甫踏進度假酒店十層樓高的恢宏大堂,陣陣蘭花馨香撲鼻,室內外也佈置得花團錦簇,我倒是被大堂餐廳的精緻法式下午茶點迷住了,忍不住點了各式各樣美味的奶油糕點以及越南特產––濃稠煉乳黑咖啡,為了不想錯過夕陽,體貼的服務生教我挑選最美的海邊餐廳位置,下午茶點隨即送上。

一直坐看天色漸暗,想到是時候嘗嘗峴港最有名囊括70款名菜的豐盛自助餐,豪華海鮮自助餐包羅有,牡蠣、扇貝、海蟹⋯⋯各種各樣叫得上叫不上名字的海中鮮,全都是漁民早上從大海撈獲的戰利品,一邊吹拂着海風,一邊享用海中珍饈,是何等愜意的海洋全體驗。

次日中午的豔陽下,散步到無敵海景的池畔酒吧間去,把半身浸泡在泳池流淌的湛藍水波中,呷一杯香檳,隨着酒吧輕鬆的樂曲搖擺着身子,這裏蜿蜒的無邊泳池就在海灘前沿,浮游其中有着與大海相連的感受,人生最悠閒的時光理應如此!這個沙灘度假村不以舖張作招徠,倒是不經意流露着一種低調貴氣,讓我不自覺地放鬆心情,盡情投入這如同法國南部蔚藍海岸的海濱生活當中。

Stayed in Crowne Plaza Da Nang, this Freach and Vietnamese style hotel faces the My Khe Beach and the sea. Its garden covers the size of 30 football grounds and presents the beautiful sunset scenery to all guests.

I also tried the French afternoon tea in the grand hall of this 10-storey hotel. The cookies, cream and black coffee with condensed milk, which is a speciality in Vietnam. It is great to enjoy the food beside the window with the accompany of sunset and flowers.

When it became darker, time to set off for sumptuous buffet. It has oysters, scallops, sea crabs and dozens of other seafood that couldn’t name. All these seafood are trophies brought back by fishermen in that morning. And enjoying the fresh seafood with sea breezes is the utmost experience at a harbor city.

The next day I went to the pool bar. I soaked my body in the blue waves and took a sip of champagne. I swayed to the relaxing music in the pool and felt I was never so connected with the ocean. This sandy beach resort does not please guests with extravagance but rather moderate luxury, creating a relaxing mood for guests to enjoy the seaside lives.


順化皇城盡顯古都風華

從峴港到順化的沿海公路,一邊是雲端高山,另一邊是綻藍海景,從海洋到山嶺的結合,山路盤旋而上,可以俯瞰遠方的峴港整個城區。

欣賞着沿途風景的變化,很快就來到了順化皇城,廣濶的城牆、深邃的護城河、高桿上旗幟飄揚,皇城一帶有種森然的皇家氣象;這裏是阮氏皇朝於1802年建造的首都,皇城的面貌仿照北京紫禁城建造,有着壯麗的城門、宏偉的宮殿,總共有160座宮殿,是整個帝國財富與權力的象徵,看這裏優美而又色彩奇麗的城門,中式建築風格加上越南濃豔的色彩,這正是順化皇城所以被列入世界文化遺產的原因!

順化古時有一個十分優美的名字「富春」,有一條美麗的香江穿越其中,皇宮留下來的照片中美豔的后妃在轎子中沉思,年輕的皇帝昂首濶步,那是一個帝國最輝煌的光境。

皇城不遠處是1931年才建成的啟定皇陵,這位末代皇帝自幼深受法國文化影響,一生過着法式帝皇生活,我愛欣賞這裏展出宮中日常愛用的法式鐘錶銀器陶瓷,這位皇帝吃穿用度都是法國舶來品,就像一位法國皇帝一樣!皇陵融合越南古典藝術與歐洲建築風格,前邊一列翁仲石像,皇陵中巧奪天工的法式裝飾藝術,用各式珍貴瓷器打破後重組,拼砌成花鳥飛龍的馬賽克壁畫,燈光輻射出奪目璀璨光彩,被譽為越南裝飾藝術的巔峰之作。

Towering mountains and marvelous seascape spread out along the coastal highway from Da Nang to Huế.

After admiring the whole Da Nang city in the distance, you will be standing in front of the Imperial City of Huế. With a tall wall that surrounds the citadel, the deep moat and the flag tower, the city has preserved a royal atmosphere since founded by the Nguyen Dynasty in 1802. Similar to the Forbidden City in Beijing, the Imperial City owns spectacular gates and grand palaces. It was recognized as a World Cultural Heritage Site for its great mixture of the Chinese architecture and gaudy colors of Vietnam.

Known as Phú Xuân (Rich Spring) historically, Huế also enjoys popularity for the lovely Perfume River. The old photos in palaces tell the most glorious time of the empire that the young emperor and his empresses possessed.

Not far from the Imperial City locates the tomb of Khai Dinh, the last emperor who lived under the deep influence of French culture. Impressed by the emperor’s daily necessities from French clocks to silverware and ceramics, I appreciated the Vietnamese and European features of the tomb. One extraordinary decoration should be the mural with incredibly detailed and opulent mosaics of cavorting dragons.


享受帝皇生活的宮廷菜

說到近年最火紅的越南美食首推順化宮廷菜,宮廷飲食文化的精緻魅力,猶如一次餐桌上的藝術表演。我特別找到主打宮廷菜最著名的餐廳Ancient Hue,位於阮朝時代的亭台樓閣舊建築,換上昔日的皇后服飾,散步於古老的橋樑與花園,先來投入一下帝皇貴族的心情,然後一邊聽着宮廷雅樂與頌歌,一邊享用這裏精緻無比從前只供帝皇與他的43位后妃享用的宮廷菜,是的,總共有43位妃嬪!

宮廷菜的擺盤極其講究, 燈光柔和、氣氛優美,蘿蔔雕成飛龍與鳳凰來裝飾美食,擺盤不是雕刻成吉祥之物,就是捲成玫瑰幽蘭,每道宮廷菜的食材都是精心挑選與烹調,讓人嘗過一次便終身難忘。

上菜時由阮朝宮廷飲食傳人細心講解,每道宮廷菜其實都隱涵着陰陽五行、四季豐登、龍鳳呈祥等寓意在其中; 珍貴養生食材包括昔日貢品如富國海參、廣寧沙蟲、長沙蚶子等;她說由於每道宮廷菜都是給黃帝親嘗,放調味料也要分開五次逐少地放,第一次在腌製時、第二次在烹飪時、煮乾汁水時放第三次,第四次在盛盤時、第五次在進食前。

眾多佳餚之中,我最愛喝那個海鮮湯羹,陣陣的胡椒清芬,宮廷飲食傳人畢恭畢敬地跟我說吃宮廷菜除了「口食」,還要「眼食」,最高境界「心食」更加是感味食物色與味的和諧、陰陽、與冷暖調和。

The most distinctive Vietnamese food is royal cuisine of Huế, which offers the food of the imperial court as an artistic performance. Ancient Hue is one of the top restaurants that supplies the exquisite food favored by the ancient emperor and his 43 empresses. Dressed in ancient royal clothes, I even pretend to be a noble in the architecture of the Nguyen Dynasty.

Arranged in an elegant way with dragon and phoenix carved from radishes or beautiful orchids, each dish is carefully selected and cooked. Try them once, and you will never forget the taste.

Descendants of the cooks from the Nguyen Dynasty explain details and connotations of the dishes. With auspicious implications, all the precious ingredients including sea cucumber, sandworm and blood clam were solely cooked for emperors. The sauce should be poured over the dishes in a dwindling standard through the whole procedures of cooking.

Seafood soup with a delicate fragrance of pepper is definitely my first choice. In addition to the taste of the royal cuisines, I was even reminded of their looks and the state of mind while having meal.


「來遠橋」前的水都風情。
The scenery of “Japanese Bridge”.

會安古城令人戀戀不捨

峴港附近老外最愛流連的地方是會安,這裏橫貫的小河畔坐着喝滴漏黑咖啡的都是外國少年人,我跟鄰座的法國少年聊起來,他原先想來玩幾天,想不到一留就大半年了!會安古城處處都是真正的古建築,老房子都髹上黃色的牆壁,聯合國教科文組織早已將會安古城列作世界文化遺產。

明朝時代中國人最早來此經商及傳教,1593年築起著名的「來遠橋」,成為了今天最精緻的地標,橋上有飛簷拱頂,裏邊建有小寺廟,最可愛的是由於在猴年興建,狗年完成,就分別以石雕靈猴與忠誠石狗鎮守兩側出入口。

法國人最懂得享受人生,沿河都是法式雅緻庭園,盡得風景風水之美,法國建築外形漂亮,加上線條優美,成為小小古城最亮眼的老房子。泛舟在秋盆河上欣賞兩岸風景,看着夕陽灑在河面上也灑在身上的奧黛,一派的舒爽愜意。難得的是聽店家說,這一身的奧黛原來蛻變自中國傳統的旗袍,加上本地人遮擋豔陽的尖竹帽,別有一番風情。

會安的美在於古樸的建築、縱橫的街道、青苔老瓦的亭台樓閣,今天會安最吸引人的是那種與世無爭的閒適,家家戶戶都有一條船可隨意泛舟河上;我愛穿上素淡的奧黛長衫穿行於舊街,頭上是沿街商店張燈結彩的手造燈籠,處處是穿着奧黛的少女在石板路上一搖一擺的婀娜多姿,此刻我明白法國少年為何對此地戀戀不捨了!

For foreign visitors, Hoi An is a favorite place near Da Nang as there are genuine old buildings all over the ancient town. Having been declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO, global tourists,especially the youth are attracted to its riverside.

Chinese businessmen and missionaries were the first group of foreigners who settled here in the Ming Dynasty. As Hoi An’s most famous landmark, the covered “Japanese Bridge” has two entrances: one guarded by a pair of monkeys and the other by a pair of dogs.

Dress up in Ao Dai, a Vietnamese costume transformed from Chinese cheongsam, and take a lazy boat ride on the river! You can admire striking French architectures along the Thu Bon River and enjoy the wonderful sunset at the same time.

The crisscross streets, archaic buildings and historical pavilions in Hoi An contribute to the serene and leisure perception altogether. Thanks to its convenient access to boats, I was able to shuttle back and forth in the old streets and stores, just like a local Vietnamese girl.


 漿聲燈影河畔杯酒當歌

白天的會安古鎮有種淡淡幽靜,但甫一入夜,河道兩岸就沸騰起來,家家店子點起了光彩奪目的燈籠,戶戶爭妍鬥麗,燈籠有竹編的也有絲綢的,折射出朦朧的七色光彩,將古城裝點得迷人又富有生機,燈影綽綽,讓人彷彿置身古代水都之中。每月農曆14日是著名的燈籠節,全城熄了燈掛滿街滿巷的傳統燈籠,像一條沿河流動的銀河。

夜色降臨,古老建築襯托着燈籠成為一幅印象派的古鎮街景,猶如重回到十八世紀電燈尚未發明之初,這時候的古鎮最富魅力,我也買下一個小小的絲綢彩燈,希望將此地難忘的風情帶回家去。

河面倒影的燈影如潑墨彩畫一般浮動着,祈福的水燈在河面上飄蕩別有一番滋味,河畔有婆婆拿着個籃子放滿了點着燭光的水燈,紅黃藍綠的蠟紙剪上神秘的花樣,跟婆婆招手買下來,婆婆會默唸着水燈可祈求幸福、也可祈求健康。我買下一盞暗紅色的水燈,心中默禱着希望有天可以再回來,輕輕放到河上任由飄流往許多閃爍的希望之中。

這時河道兩旁已是密麻麻的花燈花船,河面上也飄滿了祈福的水燈,河岸兩邊的酒吧更是坐滿了來自世界各地的異鄉客人,細細體味這個東方夏威夷古城如詩如畫的風情。我也來到河畔的酒吧,叫上一杯地道的雞尾酒,在浪漫跳舞音樂中,一邊觀看河畔上小舟虛無縹緲地穿行,一邊啜飲着清甜花香的雞尾酒,晚風吹皺了河上繚繞的燈影,暖風真的薰得遊人有點醉意了!

Distinct from the tranquil daytime, the bustling old town is lit by colourful hand-crafted lanterns as night falls.The old-style Hoi An lanterns reflect on the water, creating a magical atmosphere on the nights of the 14th of each lunar month, which is the famous lantern festival. Ancient buildings and lanterns reflect a unique street scene of impressionism, and bring everyone back to the 18th century without electricity.

The water lamps made of stencil paper float with blessings on the river. Touched by the colorful scene, I bought one in dark red from an old lady, softly let the lamp drift with all the glistening outlooks and made a wish to come back again.

Following the steps of travelers in the bars along the riverside, I also spent the enjoyable night with a sweet cocktail while watching the gaily decorated boats moving past the water. What an an extraordinary moment!


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