香港義安 茶蟲龍珠比金貴
Yee On Tea House: Where Tea Worths More Than Gold

姚先生珍藏的珍貴茶葉,其中包括「陳年黑珍珠虫屎茶」。Mr. Yiu’s precious tea collection includes Black Pearl Bug Shit Tea.

姚先生珍藏的珍貴茶葉,其中包括「陳年黑珍珠虫屎茶」。Mr. Yiu’s precious tea collection includes Black Pearl Bug Shit Tea.

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姚先生正在用老茶與新茶兌成茶莊馳名的「最好味普洱」。The owner Mr. Yiu mixed the aged and new tea to form the trademarked “Best Puerh”.


上環老店多,入來義安茶莊的人藏龍臥虎,茶莊第二代姚宗權總是先招呼喝一杯店裏獨有「最好味普洱」,讓客人一溜眼玻璃櫃內陳列着父親多年積存下來的陳年普洱茶餅:1945年紅印圓茶55 萬港幣一片、1945年藍印圓茶甲級跟乙級40 萬港幣一片、1945年美術字藍印鐵餅30萬港幣一片。店主還私藏了珍貴稀罕的茶品,只賣給臭味相投的客人。
Sheung Wan, famous for its historic shops, is no short of knowledgeable visitors. Mr. Yiu Chung Kuen, the second generation owner of Yee On Tea House, would treat his guests with the shop’s signature “Best Puerh” while showcasing his father’s special puerh cakes collections – such as the HKD 550,000 red seal and the HKD 400,000 blue seal, both aging back from 1945.

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近年常聽到港倉普洱的拍賣,往往一片普洱茶餅竟然可拍賣到幾十萬元,好奇地問問義安茶莊老闆姚先生,他半點不稀奇地說:「香港氣候環境高溫高濕又不通風,因而造就了一種讓普洱茶發酵的微妙因素,形成了獨特的港倉普洱茶的味道。」

姚先生給我們泡一杯本店獨有註冊商標的「最好味普洱」,他呷一口在嘴裏緩緩迴環着,然後才一下子吞下去,他解釋說:「初時有淡淡的杏仁香,會感覺滑口又帶點棗香,這些都是陳年普洱才有的風味,因為我們用上二十年的舊普洱混入新普洱,令這茶既有新茶的爽口、又有舊茶的回甘韻味。」

姚先生笑說在倉庫中發現了一種珍貴品種的茶,從玻璃櫃裏邊神神秘秘地拿出一個樽,裏邊有像粉沫又像芝麻般的茶葉粉。一泡出來深深的烏黑色,跟一般茶葉十分不同,有一種清郁的香氣,嚐下去卻是香濃順喉,帶有一種熟香味,甚至有着點點的藥味,於是愈發好奇地追問。「這些其實是『陳年黑珍珠蟲屎茶』,哈哈!不必擔心,其實中國藥書早有記載這已不只是茶葉,而成了一種十分珍貴的藥材。」清代乾隆年間這種蟲茶已被視為珍品,甚至美其名為「龍珠茶」,更是定期向朝廷進貢的金貴之物。

姚先生又說到:「一般沒有大量存有舊茶的倉庫不可能有這些茶蟲糞,可遇而不可求,我們每次翻古老茶袋時只會掉下十分少量的龍珠茶,可能幾百袋茶才累積到幾両,才更顯得奇特而珍貴。你們喝的是茶蟲吃了幾十萬元一片的普洱所產生的龍珠茶,平時我們要賣到3,000港元一両的。」
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An auction price of half a million for a piece of Hong Kong-stored puerh cake is no big news. “Hong Kong’s hot and humid climate provides a special environment for puerh’s fermentation, hence creating a unique flavour that only belongs to the city,” Mr. Yiu says.

“It has an initial taste of almond, followed by a smooth jujube aroma,” he says while treating us with a freshly brewed cup of trademarked “Best Puerh”. “We mixed the 20-year-old puerh with a bit of new tea in order to create such complicated flavour of freshness and bitter aftertaste.”

Mr. Yiu shows us a secret jar of tea powder, which he jokes that it’s a rare type of tea he recently found in his warehouse. The tea has a unique jet-black colour, along with a fresh aroma and almost medicine-like bitter taste. “It’s called Black Pearl Bug Shit Tea. But don’t worry! It has long been documented that it is not tea, but a precious type of Chinese medicine,” he says. In fact, this bug shit tea, nobly named as Dragon Ball, has been seen as a valuable tribute since Qianlong period.

“This tea can only be found in a warehouse stored with huge amount of aged tea,” Mr. Yiu says. “There are only a few grams of Dragon Ball from over hundreds of aged tea bags, which makes it extremely rare. The tea you just drink, which is created by tea bugs after eating a half-million-a-piece puerh, usually costs HKD 3,000 for 38 grams.”
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義安茶莊Yee On Tea House

地址 Address
香港上環德輔道西147 號
147 Des Voeux Road West, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong

電話 Tel
+852 2548 6242
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