己亥年以豬入饌
The Year of Delicious Pig

2019年乃己亥年, 生肖為豬。說到豬,大家都會想起各種有關豬的美食; 全世界有超過 400個豬種,單是中國料理,如遐爾聞名的東坡肉、 乳豬全體等除了美味,更是在節慶必有的一種標誌性食品。2019年黃土豬年,宜吃豬。
2019 is a year of Earth Pig. In China, there are quite a few famous pork dishes that every Chinese is familiar with, such as Dongpo pork and roast suckling pig. These dishes are not only yummy,but playing a very important part in traditional festival celebration.


紅燒東坡肉炆鮮鮑魚
Braised Abalone with Dongpo Pork

海陸材料 相互提鮮

吃豬,我們找來位於澳門四季酒店,連續十年獲得米其林星級殊榮的紫逸軒,由餐廳行政總廚張志才師傅推薦相關菜式。張師傅入廚40多年,大江南北有關豬的料理都瞭如指掌,張師傅更憑經驗在傳統中加入變化,如招牌菜之一的“紅燒東坡肉炆鮮鮑魚”。

東坡肉相傳是大文豪蘇軾(號東坡居士)在杭州任知州時,組織民工疏導西湖,築堤建橋。杭州老百姓很感激他,過年時就送他一批豬肉。蘇軾收到後便指點家人將肉切成方塊再燒得紅酥,再分送給疏導西湖的民工們吃,大家吃後都大聲稱好,把這道菜色稱為“東坡肉”。 紫逸軒先把上等五花肉炆煮兩小時,再加入鮑魚一起炆個多小時,肥肉入口即化,香而不膩,瘦肉香嫩多汁,另外亦多了一層鮑魚鮮甜味道。至於鮑魚是使用八頭鮮鮑,鮑魚吸收了東坡肉的肉汁亦多了一分酥香,達到兩者相互提鮮的效果。

The Fresh Surf ’n’ Turf

Headed to the Michelin-starred restaurant, Zi Yat Heen at Four Season Hotel Macao to seek out the best Chinese pork dish. The executive chef, Chef Cheung, recommended the signature dishes, Braised Abalone with Dongpo Pork, with his 40-year cooking experience.

Legend has it that it was the Chinese great scholar Su Shi (art name Dongpo) who invented Dongpo Pork. After Su Shi became the mayor of Hangzhou, he fought a terrible flood on the front lines. When Chinese new year came, the citizens of Hangzhou gave Su some pork as a token of gratitude. He cooked the pork by cutting it into pieces and braising it.Nowadays at Zi Yat Heen, Chef Cheung re-invented the recipe. He braised the pork for two hours before adding in fresh abalone and cooking for another hour. The pork would become so tender that you could feel it melt in your mouth. The abalone simmered with pork absorbed fully the delicious sauce. The perfect match of these two made a truly tantalizing dish.

咖啡焗腩排
Baked Pork Ribs Flavoured with Coffee Sauce
紫逸滋味骨
Zi Yat Heen Braised Pork Ribs

一式兩款 煮腩排

腩排絕對是華人最愛用來入饌的部位之一;它位於近肚腩部分、一塊連骨帶肉的肋骨,肉層比較厚,脂肪較多,並帶有白色軟骨。 腩排由於本身肉厚、油脂較多肉質較軟,肉味較甘香,吃來的口感有脆度,通常會以油炸、燜煮或是燒烤的方式處理。如京都排骨、椒鹽排骨等等。紫逸軒其中兩款最受歡迎的菜色,均由腩排作材料,其中咖啡焗腩排用鹽、糖、紹酒先醃,再加上以自家磨製的咖啡豆、柳橙汁、橙酒、桂花酒等的秘製咖啡汁烤焗入味,未上枱先聞到香味,入口肉嫩骨細,一嚐就不能停口。另一款紫逸滋味骨,則是無鍚骨的變奏:使用紅麴米、燒鴨、薑等製成秘製醬汁餵之——醬汁才是整個菜色的靈魂,所以奉送麵包給你蘸汁吃,一個人輕輕鬆鬆就能幹掉一條麵包。

Enjoy Juicy Spare Ribs Two Ways

Pork ribs are indispensable ingredients in many Chinese recipes. The meat is cut from the belly of the pig, which is tender, dense and fat that absorbs preferably sweet tastes. Usually they are grilled, roasted or fried. There are two of most popular dishesat Zi Yat Heen that use pork ribs as key ingredients. One of them is “Baked Pork Ribs Flavoured with Coffee Sauce”. The ribs are marinated in Chinese wine with salt and sugar, before the chef rub them with the secret coffee sauce made of ground beans,orange juice and cassia wine. The ribs then are roasted in the oven until the sauceis fully absorbed and the meat becomes tender and juicy. Another iconic dish is “Zi Yat Heen Braised Pork Ribs”, which is a variety of Wuxi spareribs. The secret sauce,again, is the soul of this dish: it is flavoured by red fermented rice, roast duck sauce and ginger. The dish is perfectly paired with bread so that even a single drop of the sauce would not be wasted.

脆皮南乳豬手
Crispy Pork Knuckle with Tofu Sauce
愛喝酒的朋友必定要嚐這個豬手,以南乳及柱候醬等材料餵之先炆一小時,放入冰水令豬肉及豬皮收緊,用糖及醋上色後,風乾八小時後再炸,皮才能炸得夠脆。
This dish pairs perfectly with wine. Braised in fermented tofu sauce for an hour, the knuckle is put into icy water and then dried for another 8 hours before it is fried in hot oil.

穩中求變 燒味雙併

說到豬肉料理,又怎能不提廣東燒味? 中國在西周時已有食用燒豬。當時八珍之一的“ 炮豚”便是指燒豬,到了清朝時更被選入為滿漢全席的菜色之一。紫逸軒的片皮乳豬件則迎合現代人吃得健康的口味,去掉肥肉,留下皮及薄薄的骨肉,由於皮燒得脆口,骨肉亦極之重味,所以味道一樣酥香濃厚,並沒有因走了膏脂而把味道也分薄了。

另一菜色蜜味叉燒,做法與傳統一樣,但梅頭肉卻是精挑細選:四斤重的梅頭肉只取用中間的24兩,取其肥瘦均秤,肉質最嫩,這裡的叉燒的確特別鬆化,香味特濃,叉燒控必定要嚐!

Roast Delicacies Combo

Having a long history, Cantonese-styled “Siu Mei” (roast meat) is the first thingthat comes to one’s mind when people talk about Chinese pork dishes. Zi Yat Heen’s“Barbecued Suckling Pig” is such a classic yet innovative rotisserie delicacy. The chefimproved the recipe to make it healthier – he trimmed the fat away before roasting thesuckling pig. Luckily, the final product was as crispy-skinned and as impossibly tender.

Another re-invented dish is “Barbecued Pork with Honey”. The cooking method isleft unchanged, and yet the ingredients are upgraded. The chef extracted the most tenderpart weighed about 2 pounds from 4 kg pork tenderloin, making it into a signature dish sorich in flavour that a barbecued pork fan should not miss.

紫逸軒Zi Yat Heen
澳門氹仔望德聖母灣大馬路四季酒店大堂
Lobby, Four Seasons Hotel Macao, Est. da Baia de N. Senhora da Esperanca, Taipa, Macau
電話 Tel: +853 2881 8818


招牌德國鹹豬手
Crispy Pork Knuckle

喫豬專門店 慢煮心機菜

十八世紀歐洲人引進中國豬種,與當地野豬馴化後裔交配,培育出高換肉率的現代肉豬,成為世界主流肉豬品種;西方吃豬文化雖然與中國有異,但亦有不少精彩豬料理;像香港的吃豬專門店“ The Salted Pig”,就使用近年烹飪界最火紅的慢煮法去處理他們的豬料理:像最受歡迎的“招牌德國鹹豬手”,就先把丁香、八角、花椒粉等所做的醃料打入豬手內再放入真空袋,以攝氏52度低溫泡20小時後備用,上桌前先泡暖才再炸。慢煮後豬皮變軟,不用加生粉炸也極之脆口,肉味濃郁肉汁滿瀉 。另一款“ 醬燒豬肋骨” 也是以慢煮方法泡製:先以醃料浸4小時再放入真空袋,並加入以花椒粉、洋蔥粉、蒜粉等材料製作的秘製醬汁,以攝氏50度低溫慢煮14小時,待肋骨也徹底軟透,再塗上醬汁再焗;這個心機菜肉質極為鮮嫩,豬肉味濃,因為慢泡,所以肋骨軟得也可一併吃掉,是一吃就停不了的好菜。

Slow Cook Gourmet

In the 18th century, Europeans introduced live pigs of China which bred with local wild pigs and became the world’s mainstream sources of pork. Western pork courses are different from Chinese ones by the way the meat is prepared. Despite all the differences, there are many pork dishes invented in the West and loved by Chinese customers. The Salted Pig, a small eatery famous for its pork laden classics, serves some of the best hearty dishes prepared with the trendy slow-cooking techniques. For their signature dish “Crispy Pork Knuckle”, all the spices are injected into the knuckle which then is sealed into a vacuum bag and simmered at constant temperature of 52°C for over 20 hours. It is fried right before served. The pig skin is crispy and the dish serves with a rich gravy. Another dish, “BBQ Baby Back Ribs” is cooked with the similar method, which is marinated 4 hours before cooked, simmered at 50°C for 14 hours and then baked with sauce. The texture of the flavourful meat becomes super tender – even the bones are soft enough to chew.

醬燒豬肋骨
BBQ Baby Back Ribs
脆炸豬耳
Crispy BBQ Pigs Ear

佐酒豬前菜

除了以上兩款慢煮料理,這裡還有不少用來佐酒的豬肉前菜,極力推介“脆炸豬耳”,使用日本豬隻,以攝氏80度低溫慢蒸三小時,切碎後再炸,吃時撒上雞鹽,超級惹味,配啤酒最是一流;還有傳統的泰式燒豬頸肉沙律﹕豬頸肉先醃兩天才落鑊煎香,上桌時加入甘筍、青木瓜絲、芫西、薄荷葉,再淋上以魚露、黃糖、薑、香茅、豉油及麻油做的醬汁,豬頸肉香口彈牙,配上的肉汁又酸辣醒胃,與葡萄白酒是天仙配!
雖然The Salted Pig是喫豬專門店,但這裡亦有不少非豬類美食 ﹕如海鮮控可試這裡的“ 珍寶蟹肉青口扁意粉”,選用荷蘭青口,再加上將印尼肉蟹拆肉配上扁意粉,異常鮮味,海鮮控一定要試!

Best Beer Buddy

The Salted Pig serves some delicious side dishes that go perfectly with beer.“Crispy BBQ Pigs Ear” is a must: the pig’s ear from Japan is steamed at 80°C for three hours before it is sliced and fried, seasoned with chicken salt. “Grilled Pork Neck Salad” is also highly recommended. The pork neck is marinated for 2 daysbefore it is fried. The dish is served with carrot, green papaya, coriander and mint leaves. The sour and sweet salad dressing is flavoured by fish sauce, lemongrass,sesame oil and so on, pairing amazingly with the moist and tender pork neck.

You will also find a few high quality non-pork dishes here such as “Jumbo Lump Crab & Mussel Linguine”. The fresh crab meat from Indonesia cooked with Dutch mussels will slap any seafood fanatic’s taste buds awake.

The Salted Pig
香港荔枝角長順街15 號D2 Place 二期地下G02 號鋪
Shop G02, G/F, D2 Place TWO, 15 Cheung Shun Street, Lai Chi Kok, Hong Kong
電話 Tel: +852 2806 1681