傳統粵菜賀新歲
Traditional and Festive Cantonese Food

喜慶盆菜 Poon Choi

新年美食多不勝數,要數喜慶和熱鬧的代表,定是那個能圍在一起同吃的盆菜,寄意「盆滿缽滿」之余,也有「豐衣足食」之意。坐落於澳門皇朝區,擁有星級米其林名廚坐鎮的天潮,今年繼續以傳統粵菜為題,重點推出喜慶盆菜,配以多款依照正宗手法烹調的菜餚,讓大家歡度佳節。
 Chinese New Year is a time for festive food. Poon Choi is a popular choice for big gatherings because it signifies a fruitful year ahead. Tian Chao in Macau with Michelin-starred chef is famous for its Cantonese cuisine, offers Poon Choi and other traditional dishes this year to celebrate the festive season.

雞粒鮑魚酥、荔蓉香酥鴨 Baked Tartlet with Whole Abalone and Diced Chicken, Crispy Duck Stuffed with Mashed Taro

 盆菜疊出層次風味

中國人喜歡「好意頭」,通常節日感覺更濃厚,故各大店家均會隨行應勢做一些「吉利菜式」,希望大家吃得開心,來年興旺發達,當中吃盆菜便是農曆新年其中一項「重頭戲」。盆菜的歷史久遠,最遠可追溯至南宋末年,戰時的軍隊逃難至香港圍村一帶時,受到當地居民款待,他們用僅存的豬肉、蘿蔔,加上現捕的魚、蝦造飯,但因一時間找不到足夠的碗碟,只好用木面盆盛菜,於是有了今天盆菜的原型。隨著時代轉變,懂吃的香港人更把海味提升為盆菜中當仁不讓的主角:鮑魚、花膠、海參、瑤柱……在保留形式和部分味覺的同時,大大增強鮮味。

說到澳門最傳統的盆菜,不得不提天潮。天潮總廚麥康入行50年,對傳統粵菜的每個步驟瞭如指掌,農曆新年推出的喜慶盆菜便建基於這種工藝,把最新鮮的蘿蔔、豬皮、支竹、燒肉、冬菇、鮮蝦、髮菜、干貝、鵝掌、蠔豉等材料逐層疊上,單是準备功夫便要花上8小時。一煲共冶,全家圍爐,正好恰應了團圓飯的「團圓」二字。而同屬新年菜的雞粒鮑魚酥則用上南非15頭罐頭鮑魚炮製,鮑魚燜至入味,釀入牛油酥皮,一上桌飄來陣陣牛油香;一口咬下,鮑魚非常爽口,酥皮鬆化,口感層層遞增,充滿驚喜。

Dishes with an auspicious meaning are an important part of Chinese New Year. Poon Choi – literally meaning food in a big bowl – is particularly significant for its long history and rich tastes. It can date back to the end of the Song Dynasty,when the country is plagued by war. When the army reached Hong Kong, they were welcomed by the villagers, who made them rice with pork, radish, freshly caught fish and prawns. As they could not find enough bowls and plates in time,they used wooden face washing bowls to hold the food. The prototype of Poon Choi thus formed. As time changes, Poon Choi has become more sumptuous.Fancy ingredients, such as abalone, fish maw, sea cucumber and dried scallops,are now added to it, further enhancing its flavours.

Tian Chao is a good place to have traditional Poon Choi. Master Chef Mak Hong has developed a deep understanding of traditional Cantonese cuisine over his 50 years of experience. Fresh radish, pork rind, tofu skin, roasted pork,mushrooms, prawns, fat choy, dried scallops, goose webs and dried oysters are layered on top of each other. The preparation work alone takes at least eight hours.It is a good dish to draw family members around a table to match the gathering theme of Chinese New Year. The restaurant also offers Baked Tartlet with Whole Abalone and Diced Chicken. South African canned abalones are braised before they are wrapped in buttery puff pastry. What a nice and crunchy treat!

迷你佛跳牆 Buddha’s Temptation

 一人專享 迷你佛跳牆

除盆菜外,當然少不了這道首屈一指的名菜佛跳牆。佛跳牆用料講究,制法獨特,滋味香濃而馳名中外,但此菜膾炙人口的原因,還與它的神奇傳說不無關係。據說在唐代時,一位不知來歷的高僧,光臨福建傳經布法,與他寺院相毗鄰的一家菜館,時常有一種菜餚飄出異樣的香味,令他蠢動凡塵之念,終於有一日,他按捺不住,跳過牆去,一飽口福,以至破了戒規,從此民間便把這菜餚名為「佛跳牆」。

佛跳牆融合了各種食材的鮮味於一甕,對中國人而言,無疑是團圓的意味象徵,但這項傳統菜餚除了食材的「鮮」,還有烹製的調配以及火候的掌控,才能讓幾十種材料一起燒煨,散發濃郁的香氣。且麥師傅見現今普遍家庭人員少,便把以往十多人吃的大盅改為迷你版一人一盅,並嚴選花膠、鮑魚、魚翅及海參等,再以上湯熬制5小時。數十種材料一起燒煨,湯頭濃而不膩,散發濃郁香氣,麥師傅多年的廚藝正正凝聚在這小小的一盅內!

Buddha Jumps over the Wall is another well-known traditional dish. It uses exquisite ingredients and requires fine skills to make. Its popularity also lies in the myth that a monk in the Tang Dynasty decided to break the Buddhist culinary rules upon smelling the aromatic dish from a restaurant. He jumped over the wall that separated the temple he was in and the restaurant to savour the dish. From then on, people call it Buddha Jumps over the Wall.

The dish seamlessly combines the flavours of all ingredients. It is a symbol of harmony in Chinese culture. The blending of different flavours requires exceptional skills in heat control. Buddha Jumps over the Wall is usually served in large pots, but as families are becoming smaller nowadays, Chef Mak now makes Buddha’s Temptation of Tian Chao in one-person portion. Fish maw,abalone, shark fins, sea cucumber and other delicate ingredients are boiled together for five hours. The resulting soup is fragrant and rich in flavour. The chef’s rich experience is condensed in the small pot of soup.

懷舊明蝦沙拉、豬油渣炒菜心、流沙黃金鮮魷 Classic Shrimp Salad, Stir Fried Choy Sum with Crackling, Squid Stir-fried with Salted Egg Paste

 懷舊菜肴三重奏

還記得小時候每逢大戶人家設宴的頭盤嗎?那道賣相漂亮,讓人越吃越開胃的明蝦沙拉是昔日新年飯局必備之一,可惜隨着中國傳統文化面臨失傳,還有售賣這道「中式沙拉」的餐廳買少見少,幸好麥師傅今年把它重新打造,讓大家重拾昔日情懷。懷舊明蝦沙拉甫上菜已讓人眼前一亮,切得工整的水果包圍着醬汁豐富的明蝦,口感爽脆,味道清新。另一道豬油渣炒菜心亦是以往粵菜中最常見的一種吃法,豬油渣的香味滲入嫩綠的菜心裏,減輕了油膩感,菜心也因油渣的加入顯得更光亮誘人,兩種食材互相襯托互補,非常好吃!而流沙黃金鮮魷則以香濃美味的鹹蛋黃入饌,經牛油炒過的鮮魷無一不鋪滿鹹蛋,吃下外脆肉爽,蛋味濃郁,令人忍不住口。

作為飯後小吃的潮州翻沙芋,對潮州人來說具有非凡意義,有護子護孫的意思。而潮州人習慣把白糖稱為沙糖,反沙即是把沙糖煮溶為糖漿,經冷卻後又成為固體的糖粉,由於糖漿凝結後像滿地黃金,所以潮州人為它安了一個好意頭名字「金玉滿堂」,用來作年菜甜品最好不過。麥師傅指要做出好的翻沙芋,每個步驟都要很準確,特別是煮糖一刻,要不斷翻炒沙糖,太大力芋頭會散,太小力芋頭又不上沙,要豐富經驗的師傅才可做到。忙不迭將它送入口,外皮香甜得很,咬入心,芋頭粉糯帶點鬆化,可謂為整桌新年菜畫上完美句號。

In the olden days, in some of the more extravagant banquets,prawn salad in Chinese style would be served as appetiser. It was also a popular dish in Chinese New Year dinners. However, fewer restaurants offer it nowadays, Chef Mak has recreated the dish to bring back our childhood memories. Neatly cut fruits surround the prawns soaked in sauce. The prawns are crunchy and the dish in general is refreshing. Another disappearing traditional Cantonese dish served in the restaurant is Stir Fried Choy Sum with Crackling. The vegetables reduce the greasiness of the lard,while the lard enhances the colour of them. The two ingredients go together perfectly. Squid Stir-fried with Salted Egg Paste is also delicious. The cuttlefish is stir-fried with butter and covered in salty egg yolk. It is crispy on the outside and rich in flavours.

Sugar Coated Wok Fried Taro is an important dish for Chaozhou families as it signifies protection for children and grandchildren. Granulated sugar is melted into a syrup which then wraps the taro. As the sugar cools down, it becomes golden in colour. Therefore, some people take it as a symbol of wealth. Chef Mak said the sugar cooking stage is of particular importance in making the dish. The sugar has to be stirred constantly but gently.If it is done too roughly, the taro will break apart. If it is done too softly, the sugar will not wrap the taro. Thus only experienced chefs can handle the dish. It is sweet on the outside and puffy inside. It marks the perfect ending to a Chinese New Year meal.

潮州翻沙芋 Sugar Coated Wok Fried Taro


天潮 Tian Chao

地址 Address
澳門羅馬街110號東南亞商業中心AK座
Rua de Roma 110 R/C, Flat AK, Ed. Tong Nam Ah Garden, Macau

電話 Tel
+853 2875 1268

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