香.酥.軟.糯
吃一頓 復活全羊宴
Tasty Tender Lamb Feast

說到復活節食品,一般人會想到甜到入心的復活蛋朱古力。真正老饕或教徒則會吃羊──歐洲許多國家在復活
主日均以羔羊入饌。有說源於聖經典故中:上帝為考驗亞伯拉罕,命令他把獨生子作祭品,最後以公羊代替的
故事。其實羊痴吃羊不需藉口,立即帶大家吃盡港澳中西式全羊宴!

Most people would associate chocolate eggs with Easter and food enthusiasts as well as Christians
eat mutton on Easter Sunday as a tradition. This tradition is popular in many European countries
and is recorded in the Bible where Abraham sacrificed a ram instead of his son to God. Now let us
discover the Chinese and Western lamb feast in Hong Kong and Macau!

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選一歲以下羔羊

若是羊痴,必定知道香港水街的巴依餐廳是吃羊者「聖地」。負責人卓小姐說羊不單是復活節習俗,穆斯林及回教教徒因不吃豬,羔羊成為主要食材。巴依餐廳選的都是新西蘭頂級羔羊肉,由於當地對牲畜產業管制嚴格,羊的飼料、年紀、重量不足都不能宰,因此食材水準當然極高。「我們用的是一歲以下,約七至八個月的小羊,肉質嫩而肉汁最多。此歲數的羊賀爾蒙分泌不多,味道不會太羶。」

外簡內繁 手抓肉

巴依餐廳有九成菜式都是以羊入饌,如招牌菜哈薩克手抓肉;採用上等新西蘭羊鞍及羊腩兩個部位,取其鞍位不肥不韌、羊腩肥軟香糯之兩者平衡。肉先用香料醃過夜,早上放入秘製香料水煮5至10分鐘,再隔水蒸六小時,當中要不斷以煮羊的秘製香料水淋在羊肉上, 味道才能完全滲入羊肉中,上檯時完全不需加上任何芡汁,擺盤雖略嫌清簡,但只要咬上一口,香、酥、軟、糯四味加上大量肉汁同時在口中爆發,實乃神仙食物!重口味的朋友,可以考慮點由手抓羊變化出來的香酥羊排──就是將哈薩克手抓羊再拿去炸,更多添一份脆口。

卓小姐說巴依餐廳雖然菜式少但做得精,我亦完全同意。麵條都是自家手打,每日鮮製。當中最受歡迎的是新疆拌麵,以自家製麵條加上羊肉、蕃茄、時菜、卷心菜等,簡單卻意想不到地好吃,麵條極之彈牙!不愛乾身拌麵可以考慮他們的手擀麵,湯底以煮過手抓羊的秘製香料水燉製,滋味無窮。最後不要忘了這裏的羊肚湯,以羊肚慢火煲兩至三小時,喝下去醒胃暖身,也是醒酒良藥。
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Located in Water Street, Hong Kong, Ba Yi Restaurant is a Mecca for lamb lovers. According to Miss Cheuk, manager of the restaurant, lamb is the main food for Muslims and the Hui believers as they don’t eat pork. Ba Yi Restaurant selects the top lamb from New Zealand where the feed of livestock is under strict control. According to Miss Cheuk, they only use lambs aged 7 or 8 months because their meat is tender, juicy and less strong in smell. The ingredients are of extremely high quality.

Most dishes in Ba Yi Restaurant are lamb. The house specialty, Xin Jiang Traditional Stewed Lamb, is meat from the waist and brisket of lamb. The meat from the waist is lean and tender while that from the brisket is fat and tenacious, so they can perfectly balance each other out. The mutton should first be marinated overnight which will then be boiled in spiced water for 5 to 10 minutes before putting to the steam for 6 hours. The spiced water will then be poured onto the meat to intensify the flavor. This heavenly dish is presented in a plain way but its delicious, soft and tender meat along with gravy will surprise you.

The restaurant focuses only on a few dishes. Noodles served here are handmade everyday. Simple but surprisingly tasty, Xin Jiang Stirred Noodles served with lamb, tomatoes, vegetables are the most popular noodles among customers. They bounce in your mouth! You may also try noodles with spiced mutton tripe soup, which is cooked for 2 or 3 hours and will warm you stomach and sober you up.
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巴依餐廳 Ba Yi Restaurant

地址 Address
香港西環水街43 號地下
G/F, 43 Water Street, Western District, Hong Kong

電話 Tel
+852 2484 9981
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大廚Mario在多間五星酒店工作遊走接近二十年。Chef Mario has worked in different
5-star hotels for more than 20 years.

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左起:迷迭香蒜香汁、黑胡椒汁及黑松露鵝肝汁。From Left: Rosemary and garlic sauce, black pepper sauce and truffle with foie gras sauce.

大廚Mario 說首先要用大火把外皮煎至金黃色才再煎羊身,才能做到外脆內軟。
Chef Mario suggested frying the skin in high temperature until it turns golden yellow before frying the mutton to ensure a combination of crispy surface and soft meat.

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告別沉悶薄荷醬

在西餐世界,羊架及薄荷醬是公認的黃金拍擋,但吃得多總會膩。澳門美高梅寶雅座餐廳的法國羊架,則可配上三款不同的醬汁﹕迷迭香蒜香醬汁、黑胡椒醬汁及黑松露鵝肝醬汁。大廚Mario說要花上一整天時間做好「湯頭」及醃料,才再加上其他材料製成以上三款醬汁,所以味道非常濃郁﹕「迷迭香蒜香醬汁中的迷迭香,獨有氣味與羊的羶味很合;黑胡椒的辛麻也能帶出羊的鮮味,刺激味蕾。至於黑松露鵝肝醬汁中的兩種材料味道很濃,但只要調配比例控制得好,松露的香與鵝肝的甘肥就可以與羊的羶味互相提鮮,相得益彰!」

除了醬汁,若是愛酒人士,也可向這裏的資深酒侍David Chang請教餐酒配搭。不說不知,原來寶雅座連續兩年得到權威酒評雜誌《Wine Spectator 》的「三杯獎」,地位有如食界的米芝蓮三星 !
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Although lamb rack in mint sauce is recognized as the perfect match by lovers of western cuisine, it can be boring to keep making the same choice. Here comes a fresh flavor at the Aux Beaux Arts of MGM MACAU, which serves French lamb rack with 3 types of sauce: rosemary and garlic, black pepper and truffle with foie gras. According to Chef Mario, it takes a whole day to prepare the broth and marinade before adding other materials to make the sauces. Consequently, each sauce creates a rich and distinct taste. For example, the unique aroma of rosemary and garlic sauce is harmonious with mutton while black pepper sauce and the well-balanced and rich truffle with foie gras sauce both enhance mutton’s umami.

In addition to sauces, you may consult the Senior Sommelier David Chang about the appropriate match of wine and meal as the restaurant has received the coveted Three Glass Grand Award from the Wine Spectator magazine.
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寶雅座法國餐廳 Aux Beaux Arts

地址 Address
澳門美高梅, 澳門外港新填海區孫逸仙大馬路
MGM MACAU, Avenida Dr. Sun Yat Sen, NAPE, Macau

電話 Tel
+853 8802 2319
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寶雅座大廚Mario 認為不同醬汁配法式烤嫩羊架能增加新鮮感。Chef Mario of Aux Beaux Arts thought pairing different sauces with the lamb can provide freshness.

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酒侍David Chang推介2003 Château Potensac Cabernet-Sauvignon(右)及2013 RODA SELA紅酒配羊架。 Sommelier David Chang recommended 2003 Château Potensac Cabernet-Sauvignon (right) and 2013 RODA SELA to pair with lamb.

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酒侍 Sommelier David Chang

寶雅座珍藏了共一千支經典佳釀,總有一支合你心水! Aux Beaux Arts contains thousands of wine for your selection.

利用特定的香料,可以減低羊肉的羶味。Special spices can be used to neutralize the smell of mutton.

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不可不知 吃羊小知識

無論中式或西式,吃羊的文化已超過數千年,自有其宜忌之條,以下吃羊小知識你又知幾多?
1)羊架配甚麽餐酒最好?寶雅座的資深酒侍David Chang說,羊架要配單寧較輕柔的中度酒體紅酒﹕「羊肉為肉質幼細的紅肉,所以要選單寧柔和的紅酒配襯,不過由於羊味濃郁,所以酒底也要『乾』一點的。」
2)若受不了羊太羶的味道,可以配搭特定的香料減少羶味,如孜然、八角、茴香等香料,可以中和和掩蓋羊肉特有的膻氣。
3)吃完不宜馬上喝茶。因為羊肉中含有豐富蛋白質,茶葉中含有鞣酸,兩者混在一起會產生一種叫鞣酸蛋白質的物質,容易引發便秘。
4)羊肉與乳酪相剋,二者功能相反;而在中醫學角度,羊肉大熱,而酸醋則適宜與寒性食物相配,所以羊肉與酸醋極不相配。
5)羊肉湯的乳白色脂肪是被乳化的結果,味道雖然好,但脂肪含量高;羊肉中嘌呤含量亦較高,對於有三高的人要淺嘗即止。
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Eating mutton has been a culture for more than a few thousand years no matter in Chinese or Western style. Here are some of the tips.
1) What is the best wine for lamb rack? David Chang suggested that as mutton is a kind of meaty red meat, it serves better in soft tannins red wine with medium body.
2) Special spices such as cumin, star anise and fennel is used to neutralize the unique smell of mutton.
3) Do not drink tea immediately after dinner. Lamb is rich in protein while tea contains tannic acid, and the mixture of the two produces a substance called tannic acid which easily causes constipation.
4) Avoid eating mutton with vinegar or cheese. From the perspective of traditional Chinese medicine, vinegar fits with cold food. Due to the hot characteristic of mutton, the two is a good match.
5) The milky white fat of the mutton soup is the result of emulsification. People with hyperlipidemia, hypertension, hyperglycemia should be restricted from its high fat content.
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