氣泡舞動時
Sparkling Fever

天氣悶熱,一杯冰凍的氣泡酒,消暑得宜亦別具韻味,凝望氣泡在酒液中翩翩起舞,任誰也輕易意亂情迷。
Sipping sparkling wine and watching the bubbles rise in the glass are the best summer pastime.


特別請來澳門美高梅法國餐廳寶雅座的駐場酒侍David Chang,為我們介紹4支頂級玫瑰香檳。寶雅座酒窖儲存超過一萬支酒,更連續兩年榮獲國際酒評權威雜誌《Wine Spectator 》頒發最高等級的「三杯獎」,地位等同米其林的三星餐廳,David正是其幕後功臣,他的意見極具權威性!

David Chang, Sommelier of Aux Beaux Arts, MGM Macau, introduced four top rosé. Aux Beaux Arts stores over 10,000 bottles of wine and was the winner of the Grand Award under the “Restaurant Wine List Awards” category by Wine Spectator for two consecutive years. The award is akin to three Michelin stars and Chang is the man behind it. His words are particularly well regarded.

① Krug Brut Rosé
口感豐富、酒體硬身且餘韻悠長,散發著乾果和燉水果的香氣。
It features rich flavors and a full body. The aftertaste lingers with aromas of dried and poached fruits.

② Dom Pérignon Rosé Vintage 1996
入口順滑,氣泡豐富而密集,口感尾段會慢慢變柔滑細膩。
It starts off smooth with an abundance of bubbles. Towards the end, the mellow and delicate texture comes through.

③ Louis Roederer Cristal Rosé 2000
味道極其全面且複雜,口感強烈卻又不失細膩柔滑,芬芳的花束味道令人印象深刻。
The taste is comprehensive and complex, with a strong but delicate and smooth texture. The floral aroma is remarkable.

④ N.V. Billecart-Salmon Brut Rosé
酒莊成立於1818年,釀酒經驗極豐富,以其極佳的細膩、精緻及平衡口感享譽全球。
The historical and experienced winery was established in 1818. The wine’s delicate, exquisite and balanced texture makes it world-famous.

粉紅色的勞斯萊斯

若愛喝香檳的您,也一定聽過玫瑰香檳,它的做法有二:第一種是香檳在瓶內二次發酵前,加入一些紅葡萄酒。第二種是浸漬法,把葡萄汁與紅葡萄皮短時間內浸泡在一起,兩種方法均可使玫瑰香檳帶有更多紅果芳香,酒中的單寧亦會增加,味道比一般香檳更複雜、酒體更全面。亦因為製作過程繁複,所以玫瑰香檳比一般香檳出產更少、價錢貴大約15%。玫瑰香檳絕對是氣泡酒中的勞斯萊斯!

法例規定玫瑰香檳的釀製必須使用三種葡萄:以霞多麗為酒體基礎,再加上黑皮諾及摩尼耶皮諾製作,比例上每家酒廠都不同。一些著名及大規模的香檳製造商,好像碧爾卡.沙蒙香檳及唐培裡儂香檳在葡萄質素高的年份,更會推出陳年年份的頂級玫瑰香檳。

The Pink Rolls-Royce

Champagne lovers will be familiar with rosé champagne. There are two ways of making it. The first involves adding red wine into the champagne during second fermentation in the bottle. The second is by maceration of grape skins with the juice. Both add fruit aromas, tannin and complexity to the champagne. The process also contributes to a fuller body. Because of the complicated wine-making process, the production of rosé champagne is even less than ordinary champagne. It costs about 15% higher and is dubbed the Rolls Royce of sparkling wine.

The law requires that three types of grapes must be used in the making of rosé champagne. Chardonnay forms the foundation, to which Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier are added. The proportion varies between different wineries. Some bigger producers such as Champagne Billecart-Salmon and Champagne Dom Pérignon are even making vintage rosé champagne from better years.


李醒良是WSET日本清酒課程認可導師、日本酒侍酒研究會(SSI)唎酒師、SSI 酒學講師、SSI International 公認講師及日本品酒師協會(SSA)清酒品酒師以及International Wine Challenge清酒部門評審。

Benny Lee is an official lecturer of WSET Award in Sake Educator, Sake Service Institute (SSI) and SSI International of Japan. He is also an SSI kikisake-shi, a certified sommelier of the Sake Sommelier Association (SSA) and a judge in the International Wine Challenge for Japanese sake.

① 南部美人Awa Sake Sparkling
岩手懸出產,比起一般氣泡清酒果味要濃郁,淡淡清爽的吟釀香、擁有水果及米的甜味。
Produced in the Iwate Prefecture, this has a stronger fruit note than most other sparkling sake. Its aroma of fermented rice is subtle, with the sweetness of fruits and rice seeping through.

②七賢杜之奏 Shichiken Mori No Kanade Sparkling
貴氣十足的氣泡清酒,在威士忌木桶熟成,有淡淡的威士忌香氣,喝下去卻是貨真價實的清酒。
The luxurious sparkling sake is matured in a whisky barrel. Behind the subtle aroma of whisky is pure sake.

③ 七賢星之輝 Shichiken Hoshinokagayaki Sparkling
米味重,清新而細緻,與不太重味食物如燒雞串、各類海鮮是絕配。
It has a stronger note of rice and goes well with mildly-flavored food such as yakitori and seafood.

④ 天山 Sparkling Sake Dosage Zero
瓶上寫上“ Dosage Zero ”意思是在瓶內二次發酵時沒有加上任何東西。酒體幼滑,米味重、纖細且平衡度高。
“Dosage Zero” on the bottle means nothing was added during second fermentation. Its body is smooth and rice aroma strong. The texture is delicate and balanced.


干身的氣泡清酒

近年全球掀起一股清酒潮,令較少人喝的氣泡清酒人氣度也急升。據清酒專家李醒良說,十多年前的氣泡清酒,多以外力打入二氧化碳製成,壞處是氣泡在開瓶後不能持久。另一種製作方法是在瓶內二次發酵,與香檳製程非常相似,不同處是清酒入瓶后不能加任何東西,清酒在裝瓶後繼續發酵,產生自然細緻又持久的氣泡。

也由於清酒內的糖份被酵母“ 吃掉”,所以一般在瓶內二次發酵的氣泡清酒較為“ 干身”,但味道的複雜性卻比起以外力打入二氧化碳要高,氣泡亦更持久及細緻。而隨著氣泡清酒的市場越來越蓬勃,日本業界人士共同發起了一個認證日本氣泡清酒的組織“ awa酒協會”,並為氣泡清酒製作定下了6個嚴格的製作基準,如需要使用100%國產米,並通過農產品檢驗等級達到3級以上、酒精含量在10度以上等等,有了這條高門檻,氣泡清酒質素當然越來越高,亦有更多清酒製作人花更多心力研究如何過濾氣泡清酒的酒醪,留存足夠的糖分讓酵母繼續“ 工作”,酒味變化有更多發揮空間,相信awa酒協會在不久將來能夠將日本酒帶入更新的境界。

Dry Sparkling Sake

The sake trend has reached far corners of the world in recent years, leading to the growing popularity of its previously less-known sparkling variety. According to sake expert Benny Lee, the method used a decade ago to make sparkling sake involved injecting carbon dioxide into the wine. Bubbles in those sake did not last long after opening. Another method is to ferment the wine for a second time in the bottle, very much like champagne, except that nothing else is added to sake after it is bottled. The resulting bubbles are delicate and long-lasting.

As sugar in the sake is consumed by the yeast, sparkling sake made by second fermentation is generally drier. At the same time, it has a more complex taste and the bubbles are more long-lasting and delicate. As the sparkling sake market grows, the industry formed the “awa Sake Kyokai” (Sparkling Sake Association) to certify sparkling sake in Japan. They established six strict conditions. For example, the sake should be made only with rice produced in Japan, it must attain Grade 3 or above in agricultural produce inspection, and the resulting drink should have a minimum alcohol content of 10 percent. The conditions have raised the bar and the quality of sparkling sake is continuously improving. Now more people are putting effort into perfecting the filtration of the main sake mash, so enough sugar is left there for the yeast to work. The move opens up new possibilities in flavors and the awa Sake Kyokai is leading the way towards a new era.

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