有麝自然香的右岸五大酒莊
Right Bank Bordeaux

大家對於“波爾多一級酒莊”的五大酒莊:拉菲、拉圖、瑪歌、木桐和候伯王應該耳熟能詳,但大家又知否,其實這五大只是波爾多左岸的王者,右岸從來沒有加入受爭議的1855年列級莊分級,但其實早在18世紀,波爾多右岸的酒莊就已經非常有名,其中亦有五大酒莊雖然當年沒有列級,卻是世界公認的一等一好酒……
“Bordeaux’s Big Five” – Lafite, Latour, Margaux, Mouton Rothschild and Haut-Brion are listed in the Bordeaux Wine Official Classification of 1855 on the left bank. Indeed, there are also top five wines on the right bank of Bordeaux which have already been famous since the 18th century.


(左)柏圖斯 (右)金鐘
(Left) Petrus (Right) Chateau Angelus

比左岸佳釀更昂價

由於1855年列級莊分級影響太大,很多人對這個列級制度的局限性有諸多批評,像波爾多右岸的波美侯產區,不在分級體系內,卻是不少世界頂級名酒的產地,部分酒莊的酒,價格更遠越同級別的左岸名莊;如有“車房酒”之稱的里鵬,酒莊建立於1979年,是非常年輕的酒莊,卻舉世聞名;其中一個原因,是該酒莊與“ 酒王之王”柏圖斯所在地相鄰,土壤成分相似。其二是酒莊佔地僅有2.3公頃,年產量就更加稀少,只有不到600箱,所謂“ 物以稀為貴”,因此里鵬的出品平均每瓶都要數萬人民幣。至於它的“鄰居”、有“酒王之王”之稱的帕圖斯,它最神奇的地方,在於紅酒雖然是以單純100%的梅洛葡萄釀製,出來的酒體卻是無比複雜,更是幾乎每秒都在變化,再加上酒神羅伯特.帕克與美國總統甘迺迪的加持,使柏圖斯名聲大噪 。比起里鵬與柏圖斯,金鐘酒莊雖然在價格及排名上有一定的差距,不過其品質已經有挑戰最頂級名莊的實力,甚至被美國權威的酒評家沙克林評價為聖愛美隆產區最有潛力的好酒。

里鵬
Chateau Le Pin

Pricier Than the Left Bank

In spite of its influence, “Grand Cru Classe en 1855” has invited many criticisms due to its inherent limitations. In particular, the Pomerol commune, which is part of Right Bank and therefore not included in the classification, produces some of the best wine known to the world. The price of the wine produced by certain vineyards there exceeds even that of ones produced by prestigious vineyards on the left bank. One prominent example is Le Pin, also considered by some as a predecessor of the “garage wines”, is a young but world renowned vineyard first established in 1979. Neighbouring the outstanding Petrus, the composition of the soil in the two vineyards are nearly identical. The rarity also plays an important role – with only an area of 2.3 hectare and a production of 500 to 600 cases each year, the price of a bottle easily averages tens of thousands RMB. As for Le Pin’s neighbour Petrus, it produces a red wine entirely from Merlot grapes, but amazingly has an extremely complex body. With the endorsement from influential wine critic Robert M Parker Jr, and the late US president John F. Kennedy, Petrus has achieved global fame and is consistently among the world’s most expensive wines. Last but not least, Chateau Angelus has the quality to compete with the most prestigious of vineyards – despite gaps still remain in price and ranking with the likes of Le Pin and Petrus – the wine it produces is recognized by the US wine critic James Suckling to have the best potential amongst its peers in the Saint-Émilion
commune.


(左)歐頌(右)白馬
(Left) Chateau Ausone (Right) Chateau Cheval Blanc

聖愛美隆“雙雄”

說到聖愛美隆,這個區與波美侯產區一樣,同樣出產很多絕頂佳釀,除了金鐘酒莊,最大名氣必然是歐頌酒莊及白馬酒莊,兩者均是波爾多八大名莊之一,並稱聖愛美隆“ 雙雄”。與聖埃美隆其他葡萄園多使用梅洛釀酒不同,歐頌釀酒以品麗珠為主,口感絲滑,酒體豐滿甘美,大多數年份至少要等20年才達到最佳適飲期。至於白馬酒莊,自80年代起已有極大名氣,1942年份白馬酒莊的酒曾獲得波爾多地區“ 本世紀最完美作品”的美譽,雖然酒莊鄰近波美侯法定產區,但風格卻大相迴異:白馬酒體渾厚,果味濃郁,常伴有黑李子、黑櫻桃等黑色水果味,它最大的優點是無論新酒與陳釀都很迷人。白馬酒莊每年約生產6,000箱,雖是里鵬的十倍之多,但仍算是產量極少的酒莊。

The Dynamic Duo of Saint-Émilion

Like Pomerol, Saint-Émilion commune is a production area to many a superb wine. Besides Chateau Angelus, the most prominent of them are definitely Chateau Ausone and Chateau Cheval Blanc. Both are recognized to be among the “Bordeaux Big 8”, and together they are known as the Dynamic Duo of Saint-Émilion. Unlike other vineyards which produces from Merlot grapes, Ausone produces mainly from Cabernet Franc, giving its wine a silky texture and a rich body, and most of them may take at least 20 years of aging before reaching its peak.

On the other hand, Chateau Cheval Blanc has enjoyed great fame since the 80’s, its 1942 vintage was even celebrated as the “perfect work of the century” of the Bordeaux region. Despite the close proximity to the Pomerol commune, its wine drinks very differently: it has a heavy body and a rich fruity flavor, in particular the flavor of black plum and black cherry and other black-skinned fruits. Its greatest characteristic lies in its versatility – whether it is young or aged its wine can be well enjoyed. With a production of approximately 6,000 cases each year, roughly 10 times of Le Pin, Cheval Blanc is still considered to be a vineyard of very low output.


食物配搭須知

有美酒怎可以沒有佳餚?我們就找來澳門巴黎人法式餐廳Brasserie的酒侍Arnaud Echalier為右岸五大酒莊配搭最適合的食物。據Arnaud說,由於白馬與歐頌的酒體剛烈、丹寧強勁,所以最宜配較為肥膩濃厚的食物:“ 因為兩種酒都有去膩的功效,用來吃牛扒最是相德益彰,而白馬又比歐頌更剛烈,牛扒外再加上鴨肝,也不會覺得肥膩。”Arnaud說柏圖斯從來都是羊架或羊柳的最佳伙伴,“ 羊的獨有羶味與梅洛很夾。而細緻度高、複雜、幼滑的里鵬,則更能配上海鮮,配上海陸雙併也不會顯得凸兀。而金鐘本身有濃厚的黑果、香草與本桶味,且丹寧較溫和,與鴨胸極之配合。

Food Pairing

Wine goes best with gourmet food. We have invited Arnaud Echalier, the sommelier of Brasserie to match food and the top five wines on the right bank of Bordeaux. According to him, as Chateau Cheval Blanc and Chateau Ausone are full-bodied with strong tannins, it is the best to pair with more fatty and rich food. “Since both of them can get rid of the greasy feeling, they get on well with steak. As Chateau Cheval Blanc is stronger than Chateau Ausone, you can pair with steak topped with duck foie-gras.” He further said that Petrus has always been the best with rack of lamb or lamb loin. “Lamb has a unique gamey flavor, a perfect match for Merlot. The delicate, complex and smooth Chateau Le Pin is more suitable for seafood or beef. Chateau Angelusis filled with black fruits, vanilla flavors and refined, velvety tannins which can pair with duck breast well.”

巴黎人法式餐廳 Brasserie
澳門巴黎人3 樓3312號舖
Shop 3312, 3/F, The Parisian Macao
電話 Tel:+853 81119200