松露之王的浪漫餐桌
Italian Chef’s Table Romance

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走進8½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana,會聽到人人都在呼喚「Papa、Papa 」,原來他們稱呼的正是這
位意大利胖爸爸Umberto Bombana,這位胖嘟嘟「松露之王」從米其林三星級大廚,今年正式獲得
「終身成就獎」(The Diners Club Lifetime Achievement Award),他在你眼前刨出一片片薄薄的
松露片,飛揚到手做意大利細寬麵條上,空氣中瀰漫着菇菌與杏仁、蒜頭與麝香的芳香,他單一單眼
笑笑說:「我認識無數米其林大廚,他們都像我一樣,滿有激情、帶點瘋狂! 」

Walking into 8 ½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana, you would hear staffs calling “Papa!Papa!” repeatedly.
That is how they call their chef-owner Umberto Bombana, who has recently won The Diners Club
Lifetime Achievement Award. “Like many Michelin-starred chefs that I know, I’m full of passion,
and a bit crazy.” says the big Italian “King of white truffles” while slicing his precious
ingredients on the hand-made linguine.

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魔幻的廚房

意大利菜總以最簡單的方法來做,也正是難度所在,然而8½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana可以成為意大利境外唯一一家獲得米其林三星的意大利菜餐廳殊不簡單,見識過總廚Umberto Bombana的手藝就曉得,日本溫泉蛋配黑松露、松露雅枝竹薯蓉、黑松露粟子奶油雪糕,內裏的雅枝竹是從法國運來的、榛子仁要從意國進口、有機蛋由日本直送,輕輕用蒜子擦過和牛、沙律滴兩滴鵝油,令小至一條蔥細至一片菇都帶有近乎魔幻的奇味,不奇怪他將自家的餐廳取名為8½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana,正是向最喜愛的意國導演費里尼致敬。

意大利的米其林大師Ezio Santin及法國大廚Joёl Robuchon也都專程來到品嘗總廚Bombana的手藝,前者還曾是他的師傅。從米其林三星到年度廚師大獎,餐廳的每個調酒師、帶位的經理都好像多添了愉快的節奏。

原先已一桌難求的小餐廳,真不是有錢就能吃得到,現在要訂靠窗或私人房間的好位置,更加需要一個月到兩個月前預訂。「香港的客人酷愛旅遊,而周游世界重要目的之一就是嘗遍美食,所以香港人的口味十分國際化,這裏有最懂得美食的客人。」一身潔白的廚衣跟他的白金髮與微微笑容很搭配,他笑說餐廳開業這麼多年:「這裏從來沒有一桌是空的,從來沒有!」

Italian dishes are easy to make, but hard to be perfect. If you finally get the chance to have a table, you would clearly understand that why 8½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana is the only Michelin 3-starred Italian restaurant outside Italy. Menu is full of magic, like Federico Fellini’s film that named the restaurant after. Japanese organic poached eggs with black truffle,French artichoke with truffle on mashed potato, black truffle chestnut cheese cake — every little detail on the dish tastes magically brilliant.

Specially visited by star chefs like Ezio Santin (Chef Bombana’s mentor) and Joёl Robuchon, his business is a clear success. From bartenders to managers, every staff is always happy and having fully energy in work.It is difficult getting a table at 8½ Otto e Mezzo, especially a window seat or private room, reservation may be needed to take up to 2 months. “Hong Kong’s customers love to travel,” says the chef.

“And one of their objectives of travelling is to taste the best food of the world. That makes their preference very international. They are one of the best customers.” He laughs that he has never seen a vacant table since restaurant opened.

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松露之王

總廚Bombana早於1993年初到香港推廣使用松露入饌,那年代香港人還不曉得這個香得有點怪味的罕有野菌是什麼東西,今天松露卻已晉身成為香港人對美食的最高級理解了。正是推廣松露有功,他於2006年被松露故鄉Piedmontese委任為「國際白松露大使」。多年以來世界富豪拍賣最大最昂貴的松露,都會交由總廚Bombana負責烹調,因為全世界都相信他是最能夠把珍貴松露的味道調配得出神入化的一人。

來到他的餐廳當然不容錯過這裏的“Degustation 8½”品嘗菜單(Tasting Menu): 稠厚磨菇海膽汁燒螫蝦、意大利扁麵以蟹肉與柑橘提味、初榨微澀的鮮橄欖油與小茴香汁配手釣野生海鱸、帶點馬賽魚湯與長櫛瓜味道的濃湯……配上Petrus、Franciacorta、Mouton和D’Yquem等美酒。

在「終身成就獎」的頒獎禮上,這位意大利爸爸感慨地說:「我從亞洲烹調中獲取我的成就,亞洲烹調一向都是十分精緻,各地來到的旅人令你需要愈來愈進步走上去世界級水平,我感到十分幸運可以為中國的客人烹調意大利菜式,從而令我更加有創意、更有動力、更要進步,此獎項令我更有信心去將意國菜推廣至世界其他地方。」

Back in 1993, Chef Bombana was the first to introduce truffle on Hong Kong’s dining table, while most of the people knew nothing about this rare mushroom. Now, to them, it is the equivalent of one of the finest ingredients. The chef was awarded “Worldwide Ambassador of the White Truffle” in 2006 by the Piedmontese regional Enoteca Cavour (Italy) for his effort in promoting truffle. Trusted by the world’s gourmets, he would take charge in cooking some of the biggest and costliest truffles sold in auctions.

It is no reason to miss out the tasting menu – Degustation 8½: grilled shrimp in mushroom and sea urchin sauce, linguine with crab meat and tangerine, wild sea bass in olive oil and fennel sauce, complemented by exceptional wines in Petrus, Franciacorta, Mouton, and D’Yquem.

In accepting the honor, Chef Bombana says, “I feel very fortunate to have spent my career in Asia. Introducing Italian cuisine to Chinese guests taught me the importance of being progressive, dynamic and creative and shaped the way I work. This award inspires me to continue to share my love of Italian food with the rest of the world.”





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懷念家鄉的味道

「米其林廚師都有自己的性格自己的特質,不過每個大廚都會尋找最好最鮮的食材,要求最純美的味道,港澳是最方便的城市,你可以在這裏獲得世界上任何最好的材料,每朝早都可以拿到法國、英國、美國、日本最頂級的食材,我隨時都可吃到來自意大利的祖家最新鮮的松露。」問到總廚Bombana在香港嘗過最難忘的美食是什麼呢?「我最早來香港吃到、到今天仍然同樣喜歡的是點心、蒸魚、鮮雞,最特別是皮蛋。我初時不相信人們會吃這種發酵的蛋,但一嘗就愛上了,我仍然愛吃;另外還有臭豆腐和鹹魚,我現在是完全徹頭徹尾的香港人了。哈哈! 」

那麼他離開意大利祖家貝家莫移居香港,最懷緬故鄉的是什麼食物呢?他笑說香港是世界上最方便的地方,什麼意大利食物都可找到,所以對故鄉的美食不會特別懷念。「我懷緬的倒是故鄉土地的香味、冷凍的雪、季節的改變、割草時的清香。我掛念家鄉的春天,人人走到屋外樹蔭享受陽光下的午餐,我懷念那裏的大自然、我的家人、還有家鄉的鄉音!」

“Every Michelin-starred chef has his own personality, but each of them searches for the finest ingredients for the best taste. Hong Kong and Macau are the most convenient cities to get those ingredients. Every morning, I could get the best ingredients from France, UK, USA and Japan, including the freshest truffle from my home country Italy,” says Chef Bombana. “My favorite food since I first came to Hong Kong are always dim sum, steam fish and fresh chicken.But among all, I like century eggs most. I couldn’t believe people would eat fermented eggs at first, but now it becomes my favorite. Besides, there are stinky tofu and salted fish. That makes me a complete Hong Konger!”

When asked about which Italian food he missed most since he moved from his hometown Bergamo, he says Hong Kong is the most convenient place on earth that he can easily find every Italian food. “There’s nothing particular that I missed, apart from the smell of the turf, the coldness of the snow, and the fresh smell of grass-cutting. I missed the Spring of my hometown, where everybody enjoyed lunch on a sunny day, under the tree of their gardens. There, I missed the nature, my family, and the accent,” he says.

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紓解心靈的美食

出生於意大利北部貝加莫地區,這裏是意大利芝士的主要產區,出產的乾酪品質十分甘甜,這個地區還特產不少專門服務皇室與貴族的名廚,1655 年就有皇族中享譽的名廚Bartolomeo Stefaniu正是出生於此。「我成長的地方人人都講着食物,不是為了生存,而是激情與快樂。我成長的地方,人們常去旅行,若有好的餐廳,人們就常來,我家旁邊的餐廳,我從小就看到鄰家廚師每天路過,受到很多鄰人尊重地打招呼,令我從小就夢想做一位廚師。還有我的祖父母都有自己的拿手菜式,父親愛弄野味、母親會做些精緻糕點,祖母更加做過富有人家的廚娘。」

瀏覽着餐廳儲存美食的玻璃房間,內裡還有肥美的西班牙火腿、也有琳琅滿目的香檳、最令人注目的自然是玻璃小盅裏閃亮着暗澹微光的松露,於是問一下這位吃盡世上美食的大廚,最令他窩心的美食是什麼呢?總廚Bombana想了一下說:「有些心靈食物(Soul Food)可以開解人們的心靈,我心情不好時會吃雪糕,而手造的意大利麵也是我的最愛,我家鄉的烤肉也是我所愛。我也希望客人來到,嘗過我的美食,離開時都會心情開朗、精神爽!」

如果要煮一頓美食給最愛的家人時會煮什麼呢?「情人節、復活節時,我會煮一頓簡簡單單的意大利麵給全家人分享。最重要是一家人圍在一起吃飯,意大利菜跟中國菜都是很家庭式的,重要是彼此分享!」

Chef Bombana was born in Bergamo, a place known for producing fine Italian cheese, as well as world-famous chefs such as Bartolomeo Stefani,
who served the royal family back in 17th century. When asked what inspired his interest in food, he says: “The place I grew up, everyone talked about
food, not for making a living but for passion and joy. People in my hometown loved to travel – they would come often for a good restaurant. When I was a kid, I used to see my chef neighbor passing by, while being greeted by everyone with respect. That gave me the dream of becoming a chef. Also, my grandparents had their signature dishes, my father loved to cook wild animals, and my mother knew how to make delicate cakes. My grandmother even served a rich family as a cooking lady.”

Browsing through the restaurant’s glass room, it stores full of Iberico ham and various types of champagnes, Chef Bombana introduces the food could
warm his heart most. “Some soul foods can open people’s soul. When I’m in a bad mood, I eat ice-cream. Hand-made pasta is my favorite, so as my
hometown’s grilled meat. I hope to see my customers leaving my place with a great mood.”

Finally, back to the basic. What will Chef Bombana cook for family? “In festivals such as Valentine’s Day or Easter, I would make a simple pasta for the whole family to share. The most important thing is to spend time together on the dining table. Italian cuisine is similar to Chinese that they are both family oriented, and sharing food is the greatest part.”

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新加坡日系意菜

東南亞地區有不少著名意大利餐廳值得一試。榮獲新加坡米其林一星的意大利餐廳 terra,由年輕日本大廚中原勢太主理,帶來比一般意大利菜更為精緻的東京式意大利菜料理。他曾於多家米其林星級餐廳工作,也到過意大利不同城市鑽研獨特菜式與烹飪方法。乍看餐廳的名字,別以為餐廳供應日本和意大利兩國的菜式,其實餐廳主攻意大利菜,不過特別之處在於菜式中展現了日本的和諧與美學,講求食材的新鮮和均勻的味道配搭。餐廳把意大利菜以無菜單方式展現,運用從日本各地,例如四國、北海道、青森等地區進口的新鮮時令食材,經過獨特創意和精心烹飪,菜式令人一試難忘。

推介菜式有意大利海鮮湯 Acqua Pazza,意大利文的字面意思是「瘋狂的水」,代表海鮮湯帶給食客驚喜的味蕾享受。以香料調味的湯底,配合多種海鮮,鮮味突出。主菜方面,值得一嚐極具特色的烏魚子海膽意大利麵。有別於一般歐洲地區常用的地中海鯔魚卵,廚師使用味道更清新的日本鯔魚卵,親自用鹽醃製,海洋鹹味配上鮮甜的北海道海膽,帶來層次豐厚的口感。

 

terra Tokyo-Italian is a one-Michelin-starred restaurant in Singapore specializing in Italian cuisine influenced by the unique Japanese culture. The Chef-Owner Seita Nakahara combines the traditional rustic style of Italian cooking with fresh Japanese ingredients, finished with attention to detail and perfect balance and harmony of fresh ingredients and flavours. Highlighting terra’s menu is Chef Seita’s ever-changing menu of his own creations based on the availability of seasonal ingredients.

Diners also cannot miss Acqua Pazza (literally translated to Crazy Water), an Italian seafood soup with poached fish and other treasures of the sea, and the home-made Bottarga with Hokkaido sea urchin and spaghetti, prized for its refined ocean-salty flavour.

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意式味覺盛宴

在泰國曼谷,食客們也可以一嚐正宗意大利風味菜。Sensi在曼谷沙吞的市郊位置,環境悠閒寧靜,遠離繁華商業區。在經過翻新後的泰式建築之內,帶來溫馨典雅的氛圍。

一開始侍應呈上自家製的拖鞋麵包,嚼勁十足,香甜細膩,做得非常出色,帶來良好的第一印象。推介菜餚包括意式牛肉他他,軟身而且切得很幼細,加上黑胡椒調味,風味十足。主菜方面,最受歡迎的是羅西尼牛排配松露油和鵝肝,或者是鯛魚里脊配芹菜和檸檬醬,兩者皆十分精緻,味道可口,令人欲罷不能。

優美的餐廳環境、動聽的音樂配上精緻以及香味撲鼻的佳餚,在Sensi絕對能一次過滿足饕客的五感,帶來無與倫比的感官享受。

Sensi situates at the Sathorn Business District, Bangkok, peacefully hidden away from the congestion of cars and fumes.

The homemade ciabatta bread is light yet chewy, bringing a nice first impression. The Italian style beef tartare is great as it cuts quite thin with the soft meat spiced with black pepper. For the main course, the beef was prepared with truffle oil and foie gras in a Rossini style, while the half fillet of sea bream is served with a hot celery and lemon sauce and charred on the outside. Both of them are pleasing.

With a chic and elegant decor, soft music atmosphere and refined dishes with delicious smell, Sensi can definitely give you a great dining experience and satisfy your five senses.

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