醇酒.美人談 廖碧兒 × 梁淑意 The Beauties and Mellow Wines Bernice Liu × Rebecca Leung

酒,彷彿從來都是男人天下;古有李白、劉伶等以酒入詩,今有羅伯特.派克及詹姆斯.薩克林等威望極大的男性酒評
家…女人與酒真的從來沒有掛勾嗎?當然不!古時李清照也有以酒入詞而更勝男兒,張愛玲小說中餐酒與香檳也是如影隨
形,更不用說鼎鼎大名的布根地女皇──著名釀酒師拉魯.比茲.勒華。若酒是男人的情人,也絕對是女性的知己。今期
我們就找來香港酒界兩位美女翹楚:廖碧兒與梁淑意,煮酒論英雌。

Wine has long been the story about men. What is wine to women? If wine is men’s lover, then it is definitely
women’s confidant. We are honored to introduce two outstanding beauties from the Hong Kong’s wine industry:
Bernice Liu and Rebecca Leung.


領=領先雜誌 廖=廖碧兒 梁=梁淑意
領﹕ 在女性角度,喝酒有甚麼好處?
梁﹕與陌生人相處,酒可以打破隔膜;用一支酒去做開場白會沒有那麽「土气」。有些人,尤其是女生會較內歛,喝點酒放鬆心情,聊天氣氛會更好,單單研究不同國家酒名的讀法,已經可以消磨一整日!

廖﹕有科研證實每日喝適當份量餐酒有美膚之效,朋友聚餐中也是一個很好的話題,大家可以講食物與酒的配搭、甚至討論酒瓶上貼紙的故事;其實貼紙上的資料及圖案都有很多故事,好像不少名畫家都有在貼紙上創作。

領﹕ 最愛的萄葡品種是?
廖﹕其實在學品酒前,在很多飯局場合都有喝餐酒,那時已經很愛以梅洛釀製的紅酒,覺得喝下去很舒服。當然梅洛紅酒也有很多種,我愛喝萄葡藤較老、味道要複雜的才叫爽。我天生不能喝香檳,因為對氣泡內的二氧化炭敏感,但訓練多時,現在可以喝一些酸度低、氣泡少的舊年份香檳。

梁﹕我很濫,很多萄葡都愛啊(笑),但回想我喝過最多的萄葡品種是黑比諾,獨愛它柔和的單寧、平衡度高且充滿貴氣。

F=FIRST Magazine B=Bernice Liu R=Rebecca Leung
F: What are the advantages of drinking from the perspective of female?
R: Wine can help break the ice. It creates a better chatting atmosphere, especially for girls. Even a discussion about pronunciations of the wines’ names can consume a whole day!

B: Studies have found that moderate drinking is good for skin. What’s more, conversations like food and wine pairing and even the label on a wine bottle are interesting topics over dinner. Actually, the information on the labels contain interesting stories. The designs of the labels are sometimes painted by famous artists.

F: What are your favorite grape varieties?
B: The wine that I fell in love was Merlot because it has a gentle taste. There are many varieties of Merlot but I prefer those with a more sophisticated taste from older vines. I was sadly not born to drink champagne because my pallet is sensitive to the bubbles. However, after a lot of practice, I can drink the less acidic vintage champagnes with fewer bubbles.

R: I have a general love for many varieties, Pinot Noir is the wine I’ve drunk mostly because it has a uniquely soft tannin and an elegant taste, and is well-balanced.


作為著名及專業酒評家,梁淑意經常被邀到世界各地評酒,地位非凡。
Enjoying the extraordinary status of a well-known and professional wine commentator, Rebecca always receives invitations from different regions around the world.

廖碧兒會參與她酒莊的所有釀酒過程,她說這樣才能學到最多。
Engaging herself in the whole brewing process, Bernice holds the belief that only in this way can she expand her knowledge of vintage.

梁淑意在聖埃美隆酒區參觀莊園時攝。
Rebecca visited Saint-Émilion wine regions.

領﹕男士懂酒會否加印象分?以葡萄比喻男人會是那一種?
廖﹕男士懂酒可分為兩種,會買是一種,會喝是第二種。若某位男性,知道我愛喝那款酒,與我吃飯時特意買這款酒與我共享,那我會覺得他很敏感很細心,當然會加分!另外若懂得買我自家品牌的酒與我喝,當然加很多分啦,哈哈哈哈。而不論男士像那種萄葡都好,最重要是有鮮明的「酒體」(性格),而不是每樣都有,但最終變得性格模糊。

梁﹕不論懂酒或不懂酒,只要態度好又虛心求教,都會加分。 認為男人才懂酒,女人最好不要作聲的大男人、 對酒一知半解但扮專家的,我就絕對不能溝通了。我覺得巴羅洛的內比奧羅比較男性化;強而有力、單寧高,還需要一個較長的熟成期,男生需要一個較長時間去成熟嘛。

領﹕ 最深刻與酒有關的一件事?
廖﹕最深刻是第一次去波爾多。那是一位酒界前輩幫我安排的,事前我不知會去那裏, 怎料一出機場,接我的法國人就駕車送我到波爾多酒王柏圖斯的莊園!當日我與釀酒師、莊主等見面,非常夢幻,我只懂得瘋狂拍照!

梁﹕有一次飛到某國家酒莊收割萄葡時,我爸爸突然過世,那時剛到埗,心想應不應該回去呢?但最終也沒立即回去。有時回想自己是否很不孝順?但其實爸在生時我也常常伴着他,而他是一個很愛學習的人,一定會以我所做的事為榮!

F: If a man has a good taste for wine, will you have a better impression of him? How would you compare men with wines?
B: There’re two types of men that know wines. Some invest in them while the others enjoy them. I’d be very glad if a gentleman buys my favorite wine when inviting me for dinner. Of course, I’d also appreciate if he brings wine of my brand! I think attractive men resemble any types of wine, but they should have distinctive characteristics.

R: Men with taste in wines will leave me with a good impression. I’d go for a man who knows nothing about wine and is open to learning than a chauvinist who doesn’t allow a woman to have an opinion. Worse yet is one who pretends to be an expert yet knows nil. I think Nebbiolo from Barolo is masculine as it’s strong in taste and has a high tannin. And same as a man it also needs time to mature.

F: Your deepest memory about wine?
B: It is definitely my first time to Bordeaux. It was a surprise trip arranged by a senior in wine-tasting. I was picked up from the airport to Chateau Pétrus in Bordeaux! I met the winemaker and the owner and took many photos on that fantastic day!

R: Mine would be when I was harvesting grapes in another country. After I arrived at the airport, I was told that my dad had passed away. I thought about whether I should come back home immediately but I decided to finish the work first. Sometimes I ask myself if that decision was unfilial. But I spent most of the time with him when he was alive. And I think he would be proud of what I am doing now since he also loved learning new things.


領﹕ 對初學者的忠告?
廖﹕入門先學法國酒,玄門正宗。波爾多釀酒的系統既嚴格又完善,光看釀製方式已大開眼界,之後慢慢才學新世界區的酒。
梁﹕我當然先賣个广告,報我的餐酒課程吧!(笑)其實可以參加一些新世界酒莊的導賞團,語言上較易溝通,實地試酒再在網上找資料,學得最快!
廖﹕喝酒要適可而止吧!有一個很大謬誤,以為喝酒面紅是好事,因為身體消化了「散」出來,其實錯得很!
梁﹕對,那是因為身體缺少了消化酒精的酵素才會面紅,有學生問我臉紅還是發青好,我說兩者都不好,酒還是淺嘗好。
F: Do you have any advice for beginners?
B: The orthodox choice to start with is French wine. Bordeaux has a well-developed and rigid wine-making system. Beginners can start with wine-making methods before learning about other wines worldwide.
R: May I advertise for myself and welcome you to my table wine class. Well, for beginners who take wine tours offered by different chateaus. Taking wines at the spot then obtaining knowledge from the internet is the most efficient way to learn wine-tasting.
B: We should drink moderately. Many people think that if the face turns red after having wine is a good sign of absorbing the alcohol, but it’s not true!
R: Yes, people that lack the enzymes to digest alcohol blush after drinking. One student asked if it’s good to blush or turn pale after drinking. I would say neither is good. It’s better to just have adequate amount of wine.

廖碧兒積極參與大大小小的試酒會。
Bernice also takes an active part in wine-tasting activities.


兩美推介 必喝佳釀

難得找來兩位美女餐酒專家,當然要她們推介佳釀﹕
The wine recommendation of the two beautiful wine experts:

廖碧兒Bernice Liu ﹕

1) 香檳
L o u i s R o e d e r e r B r u t Premier

口感優雅舒服, 果味清爽甜美, 餘韻悠長。
Embodies a graceful taste full of sweet, refreshing and long-lasting impressions.

2)白酒
Bellavizio Blanc 2013(圖為2012 年)

酒體飽滿圓潤、充滿香草的香味,酸度低,喝得舒服。
Uses low acidity and the fragrance of vanilla to offer a fruity wine.

3)紅酒
Masseto 2011

被譽為世界三大最好的梅洛紅酒之一, 酒體複雜。
It is praised to be one of the world’s best red Merlot wines with a complex texture.

梁淑意Rebecca Leung ﹕

1)紅酒
Domaine Jean Foillard,Mo r g o n , Côt e d e P y ,Morgon 2015 (圖為2014年)

葡萄配合最少人為控制條件下的製法釀成, 可喝到最純淨風味。
Brewing grapes with the least artificial participation,the production method enables a purest flavor.

2)香檳
Ruinart Blanc de Blancs Champagne NV

乾淨利落。芬芳可口,非常優雅。
Balances the neat, fragrant and elegant tastes perfectly.

3) 紅酒
Giuseppe Rinaldi Barolo Brunate Le Coste 2012

非常有深度, 要慢慢細嚐的氣質濃厚紅酒。
A slow taste of the savor is specially required to enjoy the perceptive and rich red wine.

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