如詩如畫的藝術饕宴 The Art of Feast

子日:「食不厭精,膾不厭細。」追求優越精緻是人類天性,飲食亦當如是。
論精緻,日本的懷石料理與歐洲菜的擺盤技巧更是極致,您會發現嚐味原來不侷限於舌尖,還可以是一場視覺的饕宴。
When it comes to aesthetic refinement,Kaiseki Ryori and European haute cuisine are regarded the epitome of fine dining.
You will find that a dining experience is not just about exquisite taste, but also about elaboration and artistic presentations.


① 前菜 甜粟米配馬糞海膽
Appetizer: Sweet Corn and Bafun Sea Urchin

比甘蔗汁還甜美的北海道甜玉米,盛產期為7月至9月,可以當刺身吃;配上同樣來自北海道的馬糞海膽,有相互提鮮之效。

Served as a side dish for sashimi, Hokkaido sweet corn, which is at its best from July to September, tastes sweeter than sugarcane juice; taste even better alongside Hokkaido Bafun Sea Urchin.

② 開胃菜 黑邊鮑魚
Seasonal Introduction: Black Lip Abalone

來自千葉縣的巨型鮑魚,一般生長於潮間帶的岩岸,肉質彈牙, 味道鮮味。

Chiba’s giant abalone is characterized by its crunchy texture, bringing you the pleasant aroma of the ocean.

③ 炸物 夏季松露配牛蒡
Agemono: Summer Truffle and Burdock

夏季松露採收期由6月至11月, 具有濃郁的甜味和木材香氣,味道帶淡淡大蒜、野生蘑菇及榛果味。牛蒡則來自青森縣。

Harvested from June to November, summer truffle has a mouthwatering sweetness and distinct musty aroma, with hints of garlic and hazelnuts. Burdock roots are from Aoromi prefecture.

④ 蒸物 喜之次魚及賀茂茄子
Mushimono: Kinki Fish and Kamo Eggplant

喜之次為貴價魚類,生長於北海道深海水域,油脂極豐。而賀茂茄子則有「茄子女王」的美譽,口感柔潤細膩。

Kinki fish is one of Hokkaido’s super premium specialties, well known for its buttery and sweet flavor; Nicknamed the “Queen of eggplants”, the flesh of Kamo eggplant tastes soft and silky.

把藝術吃下肚

懷石料理據說是源自於傳統日式茶會之前,為免空腹喝茶令腸胃不適,茶會會提供輕盈料理。而「懷石」一詞則是形容和尚僧侶將溫熱的石頭抱在懷中,以消除飢餓的感覺。故此懷石料理的份量都比較小,旨在提供飽足感,而並非作充飢之用。但一路發展下來,現今的懷石料理演變了許多,不論在色、香、味方面都力臻完美, 無論餐具還是食物的擺盤都要求很高,主要盛裝食物的器具有陶器、瓷器、漆器等,而擺盤的精美程度更達藝術的層面,每一碟都是完美的裝置藝術品。

不時不食

懷石料理的食材選用及上菜次序亦非常注重。「不時不食」是原則,餐單會隨季節時令改變;烹調方法則著重帶出食材的鮮度和原味,不會過分調味,其形式為「一汁三菜」或「一汁四菜」,基本上一頓懷石料理大約有九款或以上的菜式,而每款菜式都有其名字,如「八寸」是以季節為主題的菜色,通常為一種壽司與幾道較小份的小菜組合;「蓋物」是有蓋食器裝盛的食物如湯或茶碗蒸。「強肴」是主菜,一般為烤制或煮制的牛肉、禽肉、鱼等等。位於澳門的永利皇宮高級日本料理餐廳「泓」,就在這個夏季推出了九道菜式的「夏之懷石料理」,由北海道、青森、千葉、和歌山及九州等地購入頂級時令食材,以精湛手藝炮製,將夏季食材鮮香原味變成藝術品,讓您嚐到百份百最正宗的懷石料理!

Edible Art

Kaiseki Ryori originally referred to the frugal meal served before chanoyu (Japanese tea ceremony). The term “Kaiseki” means hot stone in a kimono fold. It is said that Japanese Zen monks used to tuck hot stones in robes near their stomachs to cure their hunger pangs. Japanese believed that only a small portion of Kaiseki would take away your hunger. Modern Kaiseki, however, has evolved remarkably into a feast of sensual pleasure, which is made up of beautifully plated dishes in distinct vessels. The courses are brought in exquisite porcelain bowls, lacquer cups and ceramic plates, aesthetically displayed like a work of art.

Ultra-seasonal Gourmet

Kaiseki cuisine features carefully selected ingredients, and the order of dishes served are at the discretion of the chef. The menu rarely lasts long, for one of the most integral part of Kaiseki is seasonality. A typical Kaiseki dinner menu consists of nine dishes, each of which is uniquely named: for example, “hassun” refers to small, seasonal side dishes; “futa-mono” is usually a soup or a boiled dish such as chawanmushi (egg tart), both of which will come covered with a lid; and “shiizakana” is the main dish which might include cooked or grilled meat or fish. Mizumi at Wynn Macau has launched a new, nine-course Summer Kaiseiki menu featuring the best in-season ingredients from all across Japan. All dishes are prepared by the chef with outstanding culinary skills to bring out the natural flavor of the fresh produce.

⑤時令刺身 Assorted Sashimi

由築地市場空運而至的時令刺身,圖中為鮪赤身及鮪魚腩(十二點方向),依次序為右至左為比目魚、池魚、鰤魚、烏賊,中間的是馬糞海膽。

A variety of seasonal sashimi flew directly from Tsukiji fish market: (12 o’clock position) tuna akami and otoro; (from right to left) flounder, stripped horse mackerel, yellowtail and squid; (centre) Bafun sea urchin.

「泓」日本料理 Mizumi

地址 Address
澳門路氹城體育館大馬路永利皇宮北名店街地面層
North Esplanade, G/F, Wynn Palace, Avenida da Nave Desportiva, Cotai, Macau

電話 Tel
+853 8889 3663



法國海龍王湯 Bouillabaisse
梵高以食為主題如小圖的「蝦和貽貝」不多,餐廳行政總廚黎凱琳就是以此畫作為湯的創作靈感﹕以麵包皮取代酥皮,上面鋪滿了荷蘭三色番茄、食用花,美得像個花園,湯裡有鱈魚、三文魚、美國蜆、荷蘭青口及虎蝦,鮮味之餘亦份量十足。
“Prawns and Mussels” is the inspiration behind this soup. Macy Lai uses bread crusts instead of puff pastries, topped with Dutch tomato in three colors as well as edible flowers, making the dish deliciously colorful. The soup also packed with cod, salmon, American clams, mussels and king prawns.

歐洲菜的五大擺盤技巧

相比起日本懷石料理的精緻,歐洲菜的擺盤風格又有不同,使用技巧亦更為廣泛﹕除了有大家都知道的「畫盤」,即將濃稠的醬汁利用畫筆、湯匙在盤面上寫字或畫圖外,其實還有其他四大技巧,如「塑型」就是利用手或模具將不規則的食材,如包有內餡的團狀物,加壓固定成長條、方形等等;「堆疊」則是將食材像積木般往上或往周圍互相堆疊,營造出或高或寬的空間感。「盛裝」則是將食材用湯匙舀入裝飾性容器或食材做成的容器,可成為盤中主視覺。而「切割」則是利用斜切等刀工令食材剖面擁有不同變化,或將食材的長、寬平均切小,也可薄切精緻化,通常運用在體積較大的食材上 。

以梵高為靈感

位於香港尖沙咀廣東道的Van Gogh SENSES,是一家以荷蘭印像派名畫家梵高作主題的精品店、甜品店及高級西菜餐廳。主辦單位與荷蘭梵高博物館洽談版權,精心挑選梵高的作品為新菜式的創作靈感,使食客們從吃的角度欣賞梵高的作品。要將餐飲藝術與梵高的藝術融為一體,Van Gogh SENSES行政總廚黎凱琳說最大難度是梵高很少有以食物為主題的作品——雖然他曾在馬塞的聖瑪利漁村待過幾日畫了一些漁船和漁民,另外也在海牙時畫過食物的畫像,但總體而言以食為題的畫是很少的。黎凱琳只能靠想像力,將梵高畫的用色、意境、畫風等等帶入她的食物創作中,希望大家在品嚐時能感受到梵高畫作的精神。

Five Culinary Presentation Techniques

European culinary presentation styles tend to be quite different from those of Japanese Kaiseki cuisine. There are several basic techniques widely applied by chefs, such as sauce painting – using creamy sauce as paint to create drawings and decorative writings. Four other main techniques include: modifying, which refers to using ring molds to transform doughs into different shapes and structures; stacking, which would give height to foods with ingredients arranged in piles or pyramids; plating, referring to position foods into decorative vessels to frame a focal point in the platter; and last but not least, cutting technique, which is used to alter the shapes and dimensions of ingredients, usually making them into smaller cubes of thinner slices.

Inspired by Van Gogh

Located at Canton Road in Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong, Van Gogh SENSES is a tribute to the legendary Dutch painter. It is a boutique store, attached with a cake shop and a fine dining restaurant. With an exclusive license from Van Gogh Museum in Amsterdam, Van Gogh SENSES meticulously creates gorgeous dishes inspired by Van Gogh’s most famous work, offering a unique culinary and visual experience for gourmet customers. Van Gogh Senses’ executive chef, Macy Lai confesses that the biggest challenge to overcome is that, comparatively speaking, there are only a few food-themed still-life paintings in Van Gogh’s oeuvre, though he did spend a couple of days in the village of Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mar in Marseille, to paint fishing boats and fishermen. Macy has to rely on her imagination to recreate Van Gogh’s paintings in her culinary expressions, hoping that everyone is able to appreciate Van Gogh’s work while enjoying the exquisite dishes.

① 傳統荷蘭青豆煙熏火腿湯
Classic Dutch Peas & Smoked Ham Soup

傳統的荷蘭日常食品,以豬肉、豬手,荷蘭豆燉湯。黎凱琳以麵包條作花欄、以芝士作泥土,在上面放上不同顏色的食用花,充滿田園氣息。

This traditional Dutch family meal is made with Dutch peas, pork and pig feet, decorated with bread sticks, cheese and colorful edible flowers.

② 法式慢煮紐西蘭羊扒配阿支竹及日本南瓜
Sous Vide New Zealand Lamb Rack with Artichoke & Japanese Pumpkin

用慢煮烹調,羊扒咬下軟腍而肉汁豐盈,南瓜蓉的顏色及耶路撒冷阿枝竹靈感都是來自梵高最愛畫的太陽花。

The slow-cooked lamb chop is both tender and juicy, colored with pumpkin puree and Jerusalem artichoke, reminiscing Van Gogh’s masterpiece, “Sunflowers”.

③ 荷蘭時令炸牡蠣及苦艾酒配蛋幼墨汁意大利麵
Dutch Seasonal Oyster & White Vermouth Martini – Fresh Egg Squid Ink Trenette

一場牡蠣的四重奏﹕以荷蘭牡蠣及苦艾酒製作的牡蠣汁泡沫,淋在手打的墨汁及全蛋麵上,加上荷蘭炸牡蠣、火腿……最驚喜的是有牡蠣味的「牡蠣葉」,原來植物都可以有海鮮味!

A quartet of oysters: oyster foam made from Dutch oyster and absinthe is poured onto squid ink fettuccine with Dutch fried oyster and prosciutto; oyster leaf will surprise you with the salty taste that highly resembles oysters.


④日本味噌醃鱈魚配荷蘭燈籠椒及意大利西蘭花
Miso Cod with Dutch Capsicum & Romanesco

取材自梵高名作「花魁」(小圖),鱈魚以日本麵豉及清酒先醃製,上桌時加上荷蘭燈籠椒及日本花穗,它們的淡酸味可減低鱈魚的肥膩感。伴碟有紅椒粉及日本紫菜粉,配合「花魁」用的頻色,也有提鮮作用。
Inspired by another Van Gogh’s work “Courtesan”,this dish features cod marinated in miso and sake, served with Dutch capsicum and Romanesco. Side dishes include red pepper powder and Japanese seaweed powder.


Van Gogh SENSES Mizumi

地址 Address
香港尖沙咀廣東道2A號1881, 2樓208號舖
Shop 208, 1881 Heritage, 2A Canton Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong

電話 Tel
+852 2622 2887

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