量身訂製:意國型男
MTM at Sarto Lab

喜歡駕着意式跑車到香港灣仔這條小巷當中,蔡嘉輝一身看得出極為貼身的量身訂製西裝,而訂製的領帶後邊繡上他喜愛的人生格言:「Work hard, Play hard!(拼命工作,拼命去玩)」。他的店子自然流露着其性格,用牛仔布包裹的古老冰櫃、處處有着紋身的圖案,當然少不得他最愛的電單車頭盔、骷髏頭的袖口鈕等,他從意大利引入的MTM (Made to measure)量身訂製西裝,正是為了讓客人成為意大利電影《甜蜜的生活》那種型男!

Danny Choi, a posh man with his tailor-made suit and tie embroidered with his motto “Work hard, Play hard!”. His boutique reflects his personal style through antique refrigerator with denim cover, tattoo totems, his favourite motorcycle helmets and skull bone cuff links. He introduced MTM (Made to measure) from Italy, recalling the style in “La Dolce Vita”.

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改造城市人沉悶的西裝

談到量身訂製,蔡嘉輝(Danny)說:「一般名牌西裝都是您進去店舖,他們將您打扮成他們的形象,我做訂製的目的是:您進來店中,我要將您打扮做回您自己。」

他在2010 年開設第一家量身訂製西裝店IL SARTO,製作西裝差不多要三個月時間,期間也要經過兩三次試身,發覺忙碌的城市人真的到派對日子才匆匆訂造西裝,於是新店Sarto Lab引入「量身訂製」的概念,就是從意大利製作多個西裝板形,客人試合適的西裝板形,就可根據量身細節,由店中的上海手工師傅細心修改,半個月已可修改完成,十分適合今天城市的大忙人。

Danny喜愛問客人一個問題:什麼是潮流?「我們都是跟着別人著什麼就著什麼,這不是潮流而是跟風,我喜愛千鳥格紋絨西裝配少數民族袋巾,西裝繡上紋身圖案,潮流應該是我自己創造出來的。」

「我喜歡意大利製作的西裝,十分貼身,特別的裁剪在騎摩托車時,西裝都不會皺起。」他特別喜愛意大利人愛細節,像電影《教父》中每個人的西裝都象徵了那個人的個性特質,以至潛意識中的暴烈或激情,往往在西裝線條與色彩上暗自顯露。而意大利人又是熱愛細節的民族,在西裝的袖口位會有刺繡、內袋的細部位都令人十分窩心,車縫線也看不到線口,剪裁也見不到接駁位。

近日電影《王牌特工2 》還找過他的店,可能在拍攝第三集時借用作場景! Danny 笑說像電影中的英國薩佛街的百年度身訂製店,也可以製作出鮮橘色晚禮服,希望電影可以鼓勵到城市人喜歡上量身訂製的體貼自己、也敢於著出自我的風格!「我看到今天城市人著西裝都很沉悶,像不敢結鮮紅的領帶穿著粉色的襪子,我喜歡意國人那種地中海的熱情洋溢的性格,有陽光就要有色彩,我的店裏有3,000 款英國及意國的面料可供選擇,即使選了較傳統的面料,也會建議選一個好玩的襯裡圖案,可以是裸女、可以是骷髏、可以是迷彩,把自己內心貪玩野性創意的一面不經意地流露出來!」

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“Most high-end brands’ tailors put the brand image on customers, which may be quite different from their expectation, but here we encourage you to embrace who you are.” Danny Choi shared his view on tailor-made.

Early in 2010 he founded the first tailor-made store IL SARTO. From the drafts, measurements, suit production takes up to three months. he soon realised busy urban folks are not that patient before the party days, so the new store Sarto Lab introduces the concerpt of made to measure – the mod suits from Italy, after sizing measurement, Shanghai masters who based in store, only takes two weeks to trim the mod suit and finishes production. Perfect for the modern Hong Kong pace.

“What is fashion?” Danny often asks his costumers.“Fashion is a statement created on our own, not the trend. I personally adore houndstooth blazer with a boho-chic pocket square and tattoo totem embroidery.” “I like Italian-made blazer because of its sublime fitting. Specially made biker blazer would not crumple.” He especially likes the Italians’ attention to details, like movie “The Godfather”, each suit represents characters̓ personalities, brutality and passion. Italian artigianato is so exquisite, with embroidered cuff, fine-detailed inner pocket and seamless thread stitching.

Lately the production crew of “Kingsman: The Golden Circle” contacted him and his store might be used as the movie scene for the upcoming series! Danny said the old tailor-made shops in Savile Row, London can also make the bright orange blazer at present, proving that time is changing, each person should have his personal style. “I notice that today most people are still wearing the boring-coloured business suits, unlike the Mediterranean people who are always passionate and like to dress colourfully. There are 3,000 different types of British and Italian fabrics in my shop for selection, even if you choose a traditional fabric, I encourage wild ideas like naked women, skulls or even camouflage lining, free yourself to explore fashion!”

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