手作眼鏡之魂 泰八郎謹製
Glasses with a Soul: Handmade by Taihachiro Yamamoto

這年代最型格的眼鏡是哪一款?是威風凜凜的美國太陽眼鏡、或是法國名廠設計的眼鏡?然而真正懂得欣賞與收藏眼鏡人士,今天所追求的都是日本手工大師製作的賽璐珞眼鏡。我們看到好萊塢巨星約翰尼.德普在電影中佩戴着古典的「泰八郎」眼鏡、日本男神木村拓哉收藏最多的「泰八郎」眼鏡,也許多少可明白品味從來就是這樣暗地裏超越千山萬水。
What glasses are the trendiest now? Many spectacles collectors of today go after handmade celluloid eyeglasses frames made by Japanese craftsmen. From Johnny Depp to Takuya Kimura, frames made by Taihachiro Yamamoto are their top choices.


有必要先了解一下賽璐珞這種幾已失傳的原材料,它是十八世紀發明的合成樹脂,上世紀六十年代被現代塑膠所取代,今天唯有最矜貴的鋼筆與日本手工眼鏡才繼續堅持使用此獨特原材料。日本眼鏡大師泰八郎工房前院就堆放着許多古老的賽璐珞,讓它們等上5年以上的時光,才會更為穩定牢固不變形,賽璐珞本身析射出猶如玳瑁般富有層次細膩飽滿的色澤,因此製作出來的眼鏡散發出神秘眩目光華,教人愛不釋手。

Celluloid was a synthetic plastic invented in the 19th century. Its use was largely replaced by modern plastic in the 1960s except in the most expensive fountain pens and handmade frames. Taihachiro keeps a large amount of celluloid at the front yard of his workshop. It takes more than five years to become solid and to bear the abundant layers of colours like tortoise shell.

泰八郎少年時代因為要配一副鏡片,所以將自己親手製作的眼鏡拿到鯖江當地的眼鏡行,當時的店員驚訝地問:「這是您親手製作的嗎?」他回答是。就這樣,隔天便接到了一通由著名眼鏡店長金子先生親自打來的電話,邀請他製作一系列的作品,從此開展了逾半個世紀的傳奇。

今天參觀其位於福井縣鯖江市的工作室,也是一派傳統、古樸,沒有太多現代化的工具,有的只是一雙長滿了厚繭的手所握住的原始簡單工具,據說原本附近有着80家眼鏡工作室,如今就只剩下兩三家,原因是今天已沒有多少年輕人擁有這份堅持與耐力,日本百多年的工藝老智慧在逐漸地流失。泰八郎的賽璐珞眼鏡不會有太多的工法或是華麗的做工,只遵循着古老的工法慢慢一刀一刀細膩地刻劃着,用最原始的手鋸將賽璐珞原版切割,慢慢將鏡框的形狀打磨出來,這個動作看似簡單,但其實需要相當大的專注力。

Taihachiro’s legendary career started when he asked an optical shop to fit a pair of lenses into his eyeglasses frame. The shopkeeper was very impressed by the quality and asked if he had made it. Two days later,Taihachiro received a call from the owner of Kaneko Optical, who invited him to produce a line of frames for them.

His workshop in Sabae, Fukui Prefecture, was rustic with only the simplest tools. There were over 80 workshops in the past but now only a couple are left. Not many young people want to enter the industry where persistence is key, and the century-old tradition of handcrafting eyeglasses frames in Japan is fading. Taihachiro’s frames are free from elaborate decoration but full of soul. He cuts into the celluloid bit by bit and moulds the frame. This sounds simple but it actually requires a great deal of attention.

手工眼鏡每一道程序都追求打磨完美,因此在色澤度、細節上是非常經得住考驗的,風格偏向東方的乾淨簡單美感,每一副眼鏡的鏡腳內側,刻上毛筆字體「泰八郎謹制」,再鑲進金箔;鏡框前用925純銀皇冠做一個爪型裝飾,沒有浮誇的設計,可以說是富涵着東方之美。製作一副眼鏡至少要經過13道工序研磨後,賽璐珞獨特的溫潤質感才會呈現出來。這種手工研磨賽璐珞的技能,在歐洲己完全絕跡,而在日本,也只有國寶級匠人還保留着這種精湛手藝。正因有着如此苛刻的要求,每一副泰八郎眼鏡都像一件藝術品。

一副泰八郎手工眼鏡往往要經過幾周甚至是幾個月的時間去打造,如此精工細作的手工眼鏡,每年最多可以製作300副,因此要三個月前預訂才有可能買到。泰八郎曾這樣描述自己的手工眼鏡:「我希望我所製作的每一把賽璐珞眼鏡都很完美。如果客人買了我的眼鏡,但是品質、做工不好,我會覺得我很對不起他。」

Great importance is attached to perfection, colour and details in handmade frames. Taihachiro’s are simplistic with a hint of orientalism. Japanese characters of “handmade by Taihachiro” are crafted on the inside of one of the temples and then covered in gold sheets. A decoration piece of 925 silver is attached to the front of the frame, showcasing the oriental beauty. A pair of glasses takes 13 complicated processes to make. The tradition no longer exists in Europe. Even in Japan, only the best craftsmen know the craft. Every pair of glasses made by Taihachiro is a piece of art.

The time of delivery ranges from weeks to months. Only up to 300 pairs are made in a year. Therefore, orders are taken three months in advance. “I hope every pair of celluloid frame that I make is perfect. I will feel very sorry if a customer bought my eyeglasses frame that isn’t up to standard.”


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