獨立時代 SIHH Independent Watches

今個年度「日內瓦高級鐘表展」(SIHH)嶄露神來之表,「歷峰集團」(Richmond)特邀表壇13個獨立品牌同場展出,獨立製表人往往不依規舉沒有界限地創作,
為今年腕表世界帶來一番新氣象,且看這次令人最亮眼的幾枚獨立創意奇葩,如何令我們對時間重新詮釋。
In this year’s Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie, Richmond departed from its tradition and invited 13 independent brands to participate in the show. Independent watchmakers brought creative surprises to the exhibition. Let’s find out how these creative independent watches redefine our perception of time.

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URWERK UR-T8 Transformer
變型金剛
Transformer

精緻雕花的鈦金屬防護罩,一翻轉即可看到三個卡羅素連着三個衛星小時迴環展現的讀時。今年正是品牌成立的20周年,當然要推出獨特表款擦亮招牌,這枚Transformer獨特之處在於可以翻轉,以應付可能面對危險運動的撞擊。其標誌性的漫遊衛星小時顯示系統,由卡羅素衛星讀時各有四個小時數字交替轉換,源着60分鐘刻度推進,將指針及跳字顯示合而為一,每個小時數字源着橫跨120度的分鐘刻度推進,期間卡羅素會反方向旋轉並保持水平狀態。All-black及Bi-colour款式各限量30枚。約售港幣777,000。
Celebrating its 20th anniversary, URWERK releases its first transformable watch for every unexpected impact. Flipping its finely crafted titanium shield,one could see the much elaborated carousel configuration and its trademark wandering-hour indication. The 12 hours in groups of four on a threearmed carousel successively sweep across the scale of 60 minutes to show the time both digitally and analogically. As each hour numeral on a disc transits the 120° arc, it counter-rotates to keep it horizontal. The URWERK UR-T8 will be available in bicolor titanium or a black PVD coating, pricing around HKD 777,000.

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MB&F HM7 Aquapod
深海異星
Deepwater Jellyfish

一直以大膽先鋒的製表理念顛覆表壇的MB&F,創製出神秘機械與科幻的風格。今年這枚HM7時間機器第七號看似一隻機械水母,代表了品牌對潛水腕表的獨特理解,融合以往外太空、飛行器、賽車等元素,拋開傳統觀念,製作一款水中生物潛水機械腕表,潛水表的計時圈猶如水母的傘蓋,正中的陀飛輪像神秘生物的大腦,時、分顯示通過兩個疊加的弧形半球旋轉完成。合共推出33枚五級鈦金屬款式,搭配藍色表圈,約售港幣913,000;並有66枚18K 的5N紅金款式,搭配黑色表圈,約售港幣1,072,000。
MB&F takes the plunge into the water with jellyfish inspired Aquapod. Under the dome-shaped cover resembling a jellyfish’s bell, its tourbillon tops the concentric vertical movement architecture like the brain of a futuristic species. The HM7 Aquapod launches in 33 pieces in grade 5 titanium with blue bezel at around HK$913,000, and 66 pieces in 18K red gold with black bezel at around HK$1,072,000.

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ROMAIN JEROME Moon Orbiter GMT
月亮時光
Time of the Moon

恰似將從手腕上發射出去月球的太空船一般,黑色表盤上點綴着月球特有的表面,人手雕刻上月球表面的凹凸效果,鋼製外殼則跟RJ 其他創意腕表一樣,結合了來自阿波羅11 號太空船的元素。此枚月球軌道運行兩地時間腕表,3 時為本地時間,11 至1 時位置扇面中有第二時區顯示及晝夜顯示,那個流動的月球與太陽充滿未來設計味道,9 時位置則設有猶如一架宇航船的飛行陀飛輪,6 時位置下方有簡約的動力儲存顯示,整體表盤設計精簡致極,紅色指針與表帶的紅線相互呼應,充滿未來月球的太空味道。約售港幣855,500。
The Moon Orbiter GMT features hand-crafted moon surface decorations and has incorporated elements from the Apollo 11 spacecraft in its steel case. It is the brand’s first fully-integrated, jumping hour retrograde GMT watch. Sold at around HK$855,500.

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HYT Skull Pocket watch
夜之骷髏
Glowing Skull

骷髏懷表傳遞着一種顛覆傳統的摩登生活藝術,HYT推出的首款懷表,首度將骷髏設計與及機械光源融為一體,還有着獨一無二的裝飾,全球限量8枚。這個配備有兩個LED於6時位置,表殼集成了用於點亮的微型觸發器,能夠將機械動力轉化成電能,令整枚懷表沐浴在持續5秒鐘的藍光之中,連綠色液體也反照出螢光。在懷表的59毫米表殼中,由鈦金屬及黑色DLC鈦金屬製成,備有一條鈦金屬表鏈。表蓋上鐫刻圖案,並配備皮革嵌件,均可完全定制。65小時動力儲存,防水50米。約售港幣883,000。

HYT launched its first pocket watch The Skull Pocket. It features the first ever skull and mechanical light source combination, exclusive finishes and just eight pieces available worldwide. The watch, sold at around HK$883,000, offers 65 hours of power reserve and is water resistant to 50 meters.

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